Metal Fabrication: How to make a Flexible Shape Pattern and Gauges

 

 

Hi, it’s Wray from ProShaper and today we’re going to do the flexible shaped patern video and mark is doing it and I’m just doing the voiceover on it, and first thing Mark did was pull this left front, fender from the same e type that we’re copying to make the nose for the bonnet for, and this fender has some of the sandwich. Rust conditions with that right angle, pieces that holds the inner structures actually prep rated. So I said mark let’s, let’s work with the other fender which we’ve already taken the dent out and it’s got a will still a few little dents in it, but that one was all cleaned. It has that little bit of sandwich rust on the top.

 

In the same spot, but not as much so, we thought this was a

better candidate to copy we’re only going to make one flexible shape and using

the same ingredients the same type of tapes. That’s close, think tape is in the

middle and towards the middle. At the left side in the middle and the glue tape

is the vinyl 1/8-inch vinyl tape. We use the straight edge razor blades pair of

scissors, and some fine markers, but here mark is putting the first of the low

stick tape on and these you want to cut the cuts of this tape really close and

nice and accurately, of course, we’re gonna Speed this up, because it takes

some time to get these on. You see how he’s putting that tape on very nice and

making sure that doesn’t have any wrinkles in it.

 

You, if you run it really nice and straight you can use them,

leave a little gap in between that’s okay as much as the eighth of an inch of a

gap that sixteenth is better. Sometimes it’ll go right up a butt up right up

against each other. But if there’s a little bit of shape present, that’s better

to leave a little gap and he’s going to put those all on. He’s got a little

angle and you can put them straight up and down to some time when you put him

on an angle too severe and there’s a lot of shape present, it gets to be a

problem, so you can change angles at any point. It doesn’t matter, but mark

actually is a much better flexible shaped patent maker than I am.

 

Some people just have a natural affinity for it, and Mark is one

of them. Brian is another employee. I have, and he makes wonderful flexible,

shaped patents too. So this is really important how clean you get that edge,

because that’s a definition of where that panel ends and try to take your time.

It looks like Mark’s doing it really fast, but he was just speeding up to from

the video here because we want to make it a reasonable amount of time.

 

It’s still, I think, of an hour-long video, but this really

captures all the that all the little details. We’re going to make this fender

in two pieces we’re going to break defender the rear section in the front

section, and the brake is going to be right about 12 o’clock on the wheel.

Opening that works really well. It made these fenders in the past and they’re.

Actually pretty easy to do.

 

The back section is mostly all arrangement, it’s pretty flat on

the side. I think it’s got. It has some area change on the top of it, but on

the side, it’s pretty flat. The front has got a lot of area change in it fronts

a little more difficult, it’s got a wired edge, and so it has a lot of nice

little features. It’s a beautiful fender too, when it’s all done now.

 

This tape we sell in our website right on that website store and

we Biden a big great large quantity. So we sell it at a very reasonable price

if you’re using a lot of it. Yes, you can buy it in the large quantity, but we

use quite a bit of it, so we have to buy in a large quantity. We sell it. Three

rolls of the low stick and three rolls of the of the shipping

fiberglass-reinforced shipping tape and – and it’s quite reasonable.

 

I want to thank everybody again for staying with us and we

boosted our subscribers to over 10,000 on our YouTube channel and when you get

to 10,000 point, you can then have a deal with Teespring peace brings a company

that makes t-shirts for us and allows them to put a sales point right on our

YouTube video, so we now have a pro shape or coffee, mug approach, a4 t-shirt

and a pro shape a hoodie available at all our videos. If you want to support

this channel, it takes a lot of time and effort to make these videos and I hope

to do a lot more. I pursued the idea of doing for-profit videos. I made one

it’s on Vimeo. If you haven’t bought that one.

 

That’s $ 0.99, if you want to stream it and only nine $ 9.99, if

you want to own it and that was sort of an experiment to see how that all

worked and I’m much happier with doing the videos on YouTube, you get much

wider distribution and, if you give us a little support by going to our store

and also buying a t-shirt that really help out, you know here, mark is brought

the tape up now to the blue vinyl tape barrier. That’s at the 12 o’clock

position and what that attacks have is a fence. The fence allows you to cut

against with the razor and then you got to make sure that you don’t encapsulate

that blue tape.

 

That’s only that little barrier temporary barrier so that we

create that that line and then what will happen is that will become the barrier

from the front pot to the rear part so he’s making the rear pod. Now he’s gonna

cut right along that that blue tape, now what’s going to happen, is you’re

going to see the repeat of in the front section he’s gonna put that tape on and

then a real important feature of this flexible Shay patent. Is that he’s gonna

start marking the patent up and you’re gonna see that in a few minutes or when

he gets over to get to the front done anyways? What we’ve done over the years? Are

we used to put all the marking?

 

On top of the second layer of tape, which is the

fiberglass-reinforced tape which, which is the tape that kind of holds it all

together, I thought well, is it all together, this tape he’s putting on is the

low stick tape, which is the release agent and, like I said we would for years,

I put the fiberglass tape on top of this and then all my mocking was done on

top of the fiberglass tape. But as you use the flexible Shay patent, the oils

from the skin – and I can vary from one person to the next start – to wipe off

that all the magic marker stuff and – and you lose all your information now.

The great thing about this tape is it’s translucent, as well as the low stick,

and there are some other brands out there. Did you find it a pretty common that

are not translucent, and you know that’s why I recommend you buy the good

stuff. What you’re saying here is the best that you can get I’ve discriminated

against all the other tapes they’re different fiberglass, reinforced tapes and

also these glow stick tapes, and what I have is the best tape for the job.

 

There’s many tapes out there. So it’s not an issue of this tape,

might be 20 cents cheaper or something. This is the qualitative level that you

want and being translucent allows you to mark it, and then you can flip the

flexible shaped patent inside out and you can see all those markings and makes

it a lot easier to use. So he’s got this back section just about done he’s

trimming up the inner edge. Then you can see all the rot on that original

fender.

 

That’s all going to be replaced that had lived where attaches to

the in Urbana section. So all this marking now is he’s going to mock up in a

little while it’s all going to be done on this dis. First layer of tape he’s

working out some little air bubbles, and that might be some rust there right.

There he’s got some major in bubbles. It looks like so there’s a little bit of

damage, but that’s not going to cause a major problem.

 

Yeah. You can’t get it out. So that’s a sandwich rust coming

through on that one little spot. He could have ground it and it would have been

gone, but it’s not a big problem, so mark has got the as the rear section

completed, with the low stick tape and now he’s going to do the front section.

So what he does is puts that blue vinyl tape again, and I love this blue tape.

 

I use it for all my cutting I’ll put down a super fine magic marker

line. First and then I will clean that line up by putting the blue tape. The

blue tape allows you to get an actual, more accurate line, because, if you’re

doing a budget line for welding, you want a super fine cut, and this blue vinyl

tape allows you to cut much more accurately and in this case here we’re just

using it. As a fence so to cut with the razor blade, so you never include the

blue tape in the flexible shape at the blue tape is a little elastic element to

it and it’ll cause of a major problem in the flexible shape patent. So, try not

to do not use that blue tape in bound inside a flexible shape and it’s the

wrong thing so see he’s going to cut against that blue tape right now so

carefully on the razor and if you cut a copying of a piece or fender or

whatever you want to make sure that you don’t dig into the base metal with you

raised away, it doesn’t take much effort to cut that tape off and then – and

you know, it’ll cut right, real, very easy without scratching the base metal.

 

So another method is say: you are copying a you have a car,

that’s a rear, car or something that you need some information and you don’t

have the information, but somebody else does and it’s a restored finished car.

Well. Putting this tape on does not hurt a panel at all. It’s a low stick tape.

It’s much less than a masking tape.

 

You can’t use a masking tape because it’s so sticky, it won’t

come off, and this tape is a lot less offensive to painting than the matte

regular masking tape and a regular masking tape will not hurt paint. So if

someone has a fender or something that’s already painted – and you want to copy

it, you can easily put the tape down and then, instead of cutting with a razor

blade, which would be a problem with paint, you can scratch the paint or dig

into the Paint with a razor blade, really easy, all you have to do is just take

a pen to find ball. Peen, pen and – and you just draw where it needs to be cut,

doesn’t have any effect on the painting at all. And then you lift it up and

then carefully cut where you drew with the pen and cut that piece and then lay

the tape back down. Again, so, there’s a way to make this happen, even if the

pod is all finished now what this flexible shape patent does.

 

Is it captures the area value of the panel and it does it,

unlike any other method, it’s a superb map that, if not, I believe, the best

method of capturing area value, it’s very user-friendly. It takes a while to

learn how to use. One is a whole different rule set using it, and I you know I

keep showing the potential of it in my videos and even if you have an original

design, you’re building a totally new original design or you’re building off or

something that’s a copy of something That but it’s sort of a wood back or a

wire form barker or a full surface buck you can. You can make one panel fit to

the wire form of the wood buck, and then you can take that panel and put a make

a flexible shape patent for it and then reverse it inside out, and it allows

you to make the other side and with the Advantage of the flexible shape at it,

it allows you to work the panel easily out of arrangement and that’s the whole

secret to shaping sheet metal for automobiles or planes or furniture or

sculptures working panels out of arrangement. It allows you to take its full

advantage of the tools that you use and meaning that you can.

 

You can arrange the panel in a low-crowned way and use low-crown

tools with it, but you get a much better surface quality when you do it that

way. If you’re, trying to use a high crown in role or a high crown, die in any

type of sheet metal tool, it’s going to mock up the panel, the low crown dies

and anvils leave a perfect nice surface. So you always should endeavor to do

the use the lowest crown tool as you possibly can, and the flexible shape and

oftentimes not all the times. If you make it a bowl shape, and some other

really high crown shapes that don’t lend themselves to taking it out of

arrangement when you’re working then – and you have to make the party in

arrangement, but even so you it’s very easy to read these flexible Shape pads

once you learn the rule set when you’re fitting to a you’re, constantly

training and neck underneath and seeing how it’s fitting or you’re rubbing it

there’s all kinds of different little tricks. You have to learn and wanted to

fit to a butt properly.

 

This is simply, you know, you’re filling the volume of this

flexible shape at now, and once you filled it out, there’s no more play between

the flexible shape hat and the panel. Just like the way this flexible shaped

pattern is being manufactured. It means that it’s, it’s really nice and tight

up against the panel when you’re making the new panel. It’s going to be the

exact same thing so that the process is making this fit really tight against

your metal. Now, if you over developed a metal using a flexible shape, atom,

it’ll tell you exactly what you did instantaneously, so you say you over

develop it in this.

 

In this, of course, it’s always in the center of the panel that

most people over develop. What will happen is the closest edge to that where

you over develop, the edge of that panel will become loose previously. It was

tight if it was just a standard compound curve. All the edges are tight on a

flexible shape happen against the surface as you’re developing that they all

stay tight and if you over, develop they’ll get loose and if you have a panel

with a reverse curve on it, the flexible shape pattern will have a Loose edge

and it’s just a matter of fitting the patent to that Lou said: you’ve got a

linear stretch, the edge to bring the edge up to the patent or you can shrink

the center of the panel, and that will allow that that flexible, that reverse

curve To happen so here’s a case here and Mark is taking on the front section

of this jag fender, where you have cutouts for the side marker light and what

happens is if you make the flexible shape at and you’re going to lose a lot of

strength of The patent there because of that cut out so I had mocked, take a

regular cereal box which is a like almost a poster strength paper and I’m

having them cut it out and to support that in the back and he’s gonna

duct-tape. That in and that’ll give us a surface to copy with on the flexible

shape, hat and then you won’t have to you won’t have to have those cutouts and

the flexible shaped patent will have a lot more strength.

 

So he’s going around the cage, nuts and stuff in the back there

and take a few minutes to do that and then it’ll just tape that on and with

duct tape. So that makes it a full surface. If you look in my video library

you’ll see, I think it was the February class that Fred from Ontario brought

down a 33 Ford. 33 Ford left front fender and it was a fiberglass fender he

brought down and he asked if we could make that in the class in aluminum, and I

looked at the fender and it you know: I’ve seen a lot of fiberglass pieces and

most of the horrible and this is the best one I’ve ever seen. The quality of

the mold must have been superb.

 

Somebody knew what they were doing when they were working with

fiberglass and then the result was defendant was absolutely perfect and it

wasn’t bondo filtering. This is the gel coat. Looking at – and I said, wow

that’s great because the 33 Floyd fender is a beautiful, looking fender. It has

as much complexity as any panel that you’ll ever make in doing any coach building.

It has all the little reverse curves inherent in it, and it’s got beading and

it’s got wired edge, it’s got, it’s got all kinds of cool stuff, and it’s one

of the most you know took pretty difficult level panel to make and if you watch

That video, it’s pretty amazing, we had four people that were working on it

plus myself.

 

I was given the guidance and the left front cheek panel. That

was my demo panel that I did to show him how to make the flexible shape and how

to develop. That panel and after that they all were beginners, except for Fred

I mean most. The other guys did three other guys were absolute beginners. They

hadn’t even put a piece of metal in a bush wheel or anything any of the shaping

tools.

 

So it was quite a question quite a testimony to the power of the

flexible shape patent when done properly. So they watch me, do the flexible

shape, pat and then watch me use it and it’s pretty simple once you get the

power of it and you know it’s an idea. I came up with a long time ago and it’s

had some acceptance, but I think it should have much wider acceptance and

anybody is doing restoration. It’s such a wonderful tool because you can always

find somebody that has a car like yours, like I mentioned earlier, that you can

copy their information from and also your car might have one side, that’s good

and the other side’s not good. So you can copy one side turn it inside out and

it is a super.

 

Accurate way of making sure you have symmetry and what I found

making Jaguar Potts years ago is that I make it. These are Jaguars. Like a 120

Jack, there was stamp panels in like 1951 or so, and you know when you would

think that 1951 they had the stamping technology down, so the pots would be all

symmetrical. They were quite symmetrical they’re, not like a hand-built car. A

lot of the hand-built cars were built in a hurry and they can be out quite a

bit, so I’ve seen cars as much as three quarters of an inch difference between

left or right.

 

There were hand-built, but generally you would think that a

panel that was stamped would be dead-on, and I did these flexible shape,

patents from say, a left front fender and on a Jag 120 and then flipped it

inside-out and in for found considerable differences. You couldn’t see him, but

they were there. So if you want to do nice symmetry this is a feeling, a great

method to ensure that symmetry. So you can see this front. Part of the fender

has a lot more shape and stuff happening.

 

So what happens now is, as Mark puts the tape down, they overlap

and what we don’t want is that overlap, so we’re going to carefully cut all

that overlap out and pull it out, and the reason for that was the first

flexible shape and that I made Was for a 120 Jaguar front fender section, and I

did it all with overlap on the first layer of this low. Stick tape and I

started using it and I turned it inside out to make the reverse side and all

the overlaps all come. Undone and it just kind of flaps around on you and it

just becomes a pain. So after that, first one I said – and you can’t do that

ever again, so I started the practice of cutting them out, making those little

tapered cuts and it cuts very, very easy. So that’s not a problem, so we’re not

going to we’re not going to flexible shape hat and the flanges.

 

Is you see, we’ve cut it off with e employed flanges with the

Senate of the barn it hooks up and we’re not gonna flexible shape patent. Wear

these goggles are now the reason for that. Is they really kind of screw up the

flexible shape patent, so we just cut around them for now, but you will see

later on in the bonnet build. What we’ll do is, we will add these flanges like

that in Boyde flange for the fender, and it would be the output flange for the

center bonnet section. We will add those on to the flexible shape and will put

the flexible shape.

 

Patents back on the panels. Hold them on with tape or magnets or

whatever, and then we’ll flexible shape patent the flanges, and we will use

that flexible, shaped pattern on the flanges to identify where all the bolt

holes are. So all the bolt holes will be circled with magic marker and then

that flange will then be incorporated into the complete flexible shape atom. So

then we can put it on our new panel, which will have the flange, which we bent

according to the edge that we had on it before. But we don’t know where the

both holes will be on the flange, so that will actually index all the both

holes.

 

So this thing will just bolt all together, just like there were

factory panels. So it’s just another great feature, as I said mentioned

earlier, and a flexible shaped pattern identifies the area value of the panel

and it also identifies the perimeter value of the piano. And then you add the

element of all the lines which are going to see. Then those are all profile

gauge lines. Then it’ll index, all the profiles properly, which, by once you

have the lines on the flexible, shaped pattern which are done in magic marker

using that blue vinyl tape, you’ll see mark doing it.

 

Sometimes you can use a ruler to you, get those lines on there

and those are all indexed on with a gauge for each line, and everything is all

labeled all on that. First level and Mark’s gonna make all the gauges in a

little while and then after you pull this, this flexible shape at an off and

you punch all the holes on the flexible shape pad. So here then, you see the

both the rear section and the front action and Mike is putting a little

storyboard on there. This is very important, they put a little square and it

says 1962 Jaguar fender for the e-type and then we put the panel number on it,

which is number one and we’ll circle that and the circle indicates what the

panel number is – and this is all for identifying it later on, sometimes this

is pretty obvious, because it’s an obvious gonna be an e type, but sometimes

you might make a flexible shape patent for a panel for a patch panel or

something you have no clue what it is two weeks later. So it’s very wise to

label them very accurately and just to have that description label on them so

that you know what it is.

 

You know six months down the road and it’s the great thing about

these another nice ass asset of the flexible shape at is. It doesn’t take up

any room. You just punch a couple holes in it and put a hook on it and hang it

on the wall somewhere and it lasts about five years or so or sometimes longer.

I keep the sunlight off of it and it’s not like having a wood buck or even wire

for them, which is gonna, take up a lot of room. So this is that spot where the

hole was and there’s this little tab there.

 

He just cut out for that little tab and he’s putting in all the

gauge locations. That’s what those lines are and all this marking even telling

you how much material need extra for the flanges and the joggled. You saw that

and all this marking is all gonna be hermetically sealed once we put the second

layer of tape on it, so this is impossible for this magic markers markings to

disappear and that’s a rolled edge right there with a wide edge and you need

3/8 extra for that and he’s marked out properly so that’s going to have a 1/8-inch

wire rod in certain in there, which greatly strengthens the edge. So now he’s

got a lot of the marking on there and he’s going to cover it with

fiberglass-reinforced tape. Now he’s giving this one a little biased, you can

actually put the tape the same way and it’s really not gonna hurt, but would

you put a bias and it makes it just like a bias tire it’s gonna make it a

little bit stronger.

 

Sometimes this can be a pain because when you get into the high

crown areas it gets troublesome and again you can change direction with this

tape. You can overlap it. Even if you have a couple layers and some spots

because you’re overlapped it a lot. It’s not gonna be a big deal now. This tape

is the fiberglass-reinforced very sticky tape, and this tapes function is just

to hold everything together.

 

So you want at least a quarter of an inch of overlap, and that

ensures that it wells it all together into a solid by having the fiberglass

filaments in it. That fiberglass filament is very, very strong and it doesn’t

allow the tape to either shrink or stretch and I’ve had. Some of these pants,

like sport, shape patents for as much as five years, and you can still make a

beautiful panel off of them. They kind of turned doc in color after a while and

in the in the August months here in Massachusetts, a lot of humidity and it kind

of reactivates the stick on the low stick tape and if you use it again after a

long period, you might have to Read us tit with plaster dust to keep it to keep

it not sticky and if you’ve store them a long time, if you let them touch each

other, they might stick to each other. So you want to kind of like hang it, so

it doesn’t touch each other and once you’re in any areas at all, so that it

will not stick over time to itself.

 

I’ve had some failures where I was you know just folded him up

and put him on a bench and then put some box on top of him with some weight on,

and they will stick together again and you try to pull them apart and they kind

of Dismantle on yourself it’s best to spend a little bit of time, put a pop, a

hole in it and put a little hook on it and just hang it on the wall. I have

beams on the building here that allow an easy hook to so we make these little s

hooks and put it put a hole through them and hang them from that beam and I’ve

got literally hundreds of them hanging for all the different jag panels and

stuff yeah, but anytime we make one of these flexible shape atoms if you’ve got

to use it again. It’s best to you know, give it a little love and care and take

care of it. You won’t have to repeat the whole process so to make this whole

flexible shape pattern. I would guess, and with the gauges and everything else,

I’d estimate about probably three or four hours.

 

There mock worked on it and if you were making a wood buck – and

that seems to be the favorite way that most people try to copy stuff is by

making a wood buck, it would take you a lot longer than that, so a wire form

would take You longer to I’m a fan of the wire form over the wood buck any day

of the week, and I will definitely have the video on wire forms and maybe even

do a video on wood bucks at some point and try to really show the differences.

The pluses and minuses of each type of buck – I think that would be a really

great video, so mark is motoring right along hand doing this quarter, plus

overlaps and getting that all covered really nicely mark ops to do a mass cut

off. I guess he cuts off at the end where he needs to tape, but on the on the

beginning, ending you sit all hanging over there. As you can see the way I

personally do them. I put one piece of tape down whether it’s the low stick or

the fiberglass filament tape.

 

I immediately cut both ends and I’m very, very careful because

it’s so important to get that perimeter and also the union between the front

and the back section that aligned really accurate, because that becomes the

weld line or in this case here on the bottom. Here. That’s the tip lines, we’re

making me a white edge, so try to take the extra effort and make that cut with

the with the razor blade very with a sharp razor blade make a very accurate

cut. It’s super important. You can see all the gauges have been labeled, 1, 2,

3, 4 and he’s doing a really nice job here now this back section, as I said, I

believe, has it’s all flat from 1 to 4-gauge front to back and then, of course

it has A roll in it whenever you put a roll in a panel that adds a lot of

strength to the panel, so that’s that part of the panel, that’s where it’s

getting its strength up at the top.

 

There is a compound they believe so that’ll be captured. So this

rear section is a very, very easy piece to make. It’s doesn’t like I said a

little compound on the top and it’s just a roll. The front section has a lot of

area change, so you got to be a little careful. So here’s my cutting between

the front and the rear sections of the flexible shaped pattern here and he’s gonna

cut off that excess filament tape and that’s gonna reveal the true seam between

the front and the back and then he’s gonna put once he Gets this blue vinyl

tape and these extras of the filament table off?

 

You will put another blue tape to create defense for the front

side, so we can cut against that fence, always maintaining the true cut line

between the two sections. So there he is. That’s where number seven gauge is

also so now he’s putting the blue tape on the left side of with that cuts, gonna

be where the weld joint will be. So when he does the front section, he cuts

right against that blue tape has opted to put quite a few gauges in here,

probably a few too many, but it’s always better to have more information than

less information. I would probably put a few less gauges.

 

Aires is putting a piece of the white card. Would you get from

you line? So mark is just laid the cardboard up against the end of the fender

traced it and then use a nice straight edge. Blade, nice and sharp blades are

very, very inexpensive and you got to cut it against PI wood or some type of

wood. Surface acts like a cutting board and allows you to cut that off.

 

Really easy. You can use a band saw also a being so I will cut

this really nicely, but for speed, the razor blade is probably the quickest way

now use them years ago. Make all these gauges with five eighths or three

quarter wide strips that I would shear and the sheer eighteen-gauge steel

strips and then use a shrink of stretcher to make them conform to where they

needed to be, but just working with the razor blade in the Cop god board, it’s

a lot quicker to do it this way. Now each gauge you want to dial it in now. If

it was it’s not fitting good, I mean close to about a sixteenth, it’s probably

close enough, but you can dial them in even a little closer.

 

So that’s what Mark is doing here with 80 paper. You try fold

the paper. This is hook-and-loop paper which I use in the shop, and this is a

hand sanding operation, so he’s just standing that center section out a little

bit to get that fit so mark is carefully dialing this in with a little

sandpaper. It doesn’t take much just a few strokes of the sandpaper and you

knock probably 20,000 so off on this cardboard and that you got a feather of

the edge. A little bit of little fuzz builds up on the edge of where you’re

sanding so yeah.

 

There’s a little dent there, so we’ve got to ignore that that’s

just shown and the video is showing the light coming through that dent we’re

not gonna reproduce the death. So now you have to put information on every one

of these gauges. Every one of these gauges will have an index point, which is

just a straight line, and ideally you put that information. All the information

you put on a gauge you put on both sides of the game. The reason why you want

to put information on both sides of the gauge as the gauges are gonna, be a

pile on the on the bench, and you want to rapidly be able to grab them.

 

You can make a pile of the ones that go north-south and a pile

to go east west, and that discriminates enough. So you can separate it in into

groups, and now the mark is pointed out, the index point and take a magic

marker and mock that index point now. Through practice, we figured out we used

to put the index points in the middle, but it’s best to offset them a little

bit and when you offset them that immediately, when you pick up a gauge, you

see the offset in the index point where it registers with The panel that offset

tells you immediately with through orientation what’s up and down just to put

up and down on, and this is a pain to do all that just offset the index mark

and you have it so now he’s also putting the circle number one Which means it’s

going to panel number one and then he’s putting a little storyboard on there. That’s

a Jaguar d-type. We usually put that in a little square, just a formula that

we’ve copied – and I don’t know if the markets gonna – do it on this one.

 

But we’ll see no square, he says okay, so I have to bring mock

back to school. I guess try to be consistent in all your marking. Now you can

develop your own marking program if you want to, but one I’ve developed through

the years is working. Pretty good, so here he’s making one now you can’t trace

this, so you just kind of eyeball and you do an initial cut. So I was taking

the marker and made that initial mark and now he’s gonna razor blade it out,

and this will allow you to get the thing.

 

The patent on the gauge closer to the flexible shape Haring. It

usually takes two times through on the razor blade to get it to cut. If you

push too hard you just dull the edge of the blade so take your time, cutting

him so he’s gonna offer that up to the panel now and you’re gonna see. Of

course, this was just an eyeball and he’s getting better. It’s not bad!

 

So now he’ll dial that in a little bit they’ll take the pen and

then do some parallel line it. I rubbing the pen on there slowly but sure

it’ll, rode that away it’ll probably take two, maybe three or four times even

to dial into each one of these gauges you can see on the bottom. He’s got a

little gap down on the bottom. It’s gonna be probably three or four before he

gets it. So I think this is the third one now to get proficient at making these

profile gauges.

 

It should take you no more than maximum like five minutes to

make each gauge, and you know some might give you a little bit of a trouble and

some might go a little faster. Of course, how long they are being important

too. So these are the north-south gauges, they’re going up the up and down and

he’s got about. I think ten, ten or so Mountain north/south gauges and I think

three or four, three or four east-west ones, so they’re mock made the couple

gauges here. The easy one on the end and I think, two on the inside inboard

side of the panel, showing it that process of dialing it in and showed you how

to put the index marks on and all the other markings that go with the gauge.

 

And that means you put the little storyboard on, so you don’t

forget because they become a pile and they can easily get shifted around the

shop. So that’s why it’s so important, and not only do you mark them all up,

you mark them up on both sides, because then you won’t have to keep flipping

them over to find out where the information is. The information will always be

accessible to you. Now you want to cut these gauges off at the perimeter of the

panel to mark we’ll do that later, but it has an index mark. But that’s the

paramount for index point.

 

We’re then index mark yes now Mark has got it going up at an

angle. I prefer to put those index marks at 90 degrees to the to the actual

surface there. So, but it doesn’t it’s not them that important. But you know I,

my preference is definitely 90 degrees. It’s got an angle, but you want that

mark to be on both sides.

 

Alright, so here we see the backside of the panel, and you can

see those cardboard inserts that mock put in earlier that’ll enabled full

surface flexible shape patent on the front side, like I said, if you didn’t put

those in you would have a kind of a Really loose bottom pot and the flexible

shaped pad and really wouldn’t be able to do his job right. So now mark is gonna

take those cardboard inserts out and that will reveal the metal edge of where

that parking light goes and now taking a fine magic. Marker he’s going to

outline exactly where that edge of the panel is cut and that’ll enable us to

make the panel as a full surface. When we make the panel and then we will use

the punches and punch through the flexible shape patent and mark the new

aluminum panel that we’re making and then we’ll have a perfect index cut out

exactly where it needs to be. That’s another example of how powerful tool the

flexible shaped pattern really is.

 

This is dead-on accuracy, every single time left or right turn

it inside out and you’re going to be right on the money. All the edges will be

right, all the juggles and all of the bolt holes in the welding position from

the front section to the back section. All that is going to be right on the

money. So here you have it. We got we’re going to end up with a completed,

flexible shape hat and we showed the spot in the back with a little light.

 

Marker light was – and I would mark that – and next step would

be pulling the flexible, shaped pattern off which we’re not going to show in

this video keep watching this racially from pro shape or sheet metal and Charlton

Massachusetts. Try to keep these videos coming. Thank you very much.

 

 

Read More: Metal Fabrication Techniques: Tipping Wheel Part 1

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