How to remove surface rust

How to remove Surface Rust

How to remove Surface Rust

 

Hi, it’s Wray from Pro Shaper workshop and Charlton Mass. A lot of people say why don’t you work with  steel, well, I do work with steel, but I much prefer aluminum. Why’d I prefer aluminum? These  are perfect examples of why I prefer aluminum. This is a brand new piece is a Jaguar part.

I made probably a couple years ago. I never got sold or something – and it’s just been hanging  around and that’s what we call humidity rust and that’s very easy to fix, but it’s a nuisance.  This is a 1980 Renault inside of the hood very common problem,  and you have this rust busting out here and if you sandblast this hood you’re gonna destroy it.  So this is an issue you fight all the time when you’re working with steel, cars,  humidity rust and this type of rust here. This is not a really deep rust.

This is a surface rust and I’m going to show you how to deal with that.


Here’s a 3334 ford fender  and this this has been naked for a long time, no paint on it, and it’s got some pretty  heavy accumulated humidity rust on it. So I hate sandblasting I’ve sand blasted a ton of cars and  parts and stuff through the years. I would never sand blast ever again other than little parts in  a sandblasting booth or the frames or something like or the frames sandblasting uh can work, but  it can do a lot of damage too.

So what I prefer is all these restorations take time.

If you’re doing this at home and you’re restoring your own car, this simple strong,  fast, phosphoric acid, navel jelly – let’s put  this on, put it in a little plastic cup dip it in here now you should use rubber gloves. My hands  are been beat up so much. It doesn’t bother me unless you have a cut it’ll bite on a cut.

I hate wearing rubber, gloves your hands all sweat. So if you’re, careful with your eyes too,  so let’s find a spot that hasn’t been sanded or anything right here and we’ll see what kind  of results we can get with that now, when you put paint remover on heavy body paint remover or this  navel jelly, you don’t brush it because that’s too thin, you want it really thick.

You dab,  you dab all the time, paint remover or navel jelly dabbing is the trick.  So if you got really heavy rust with big, deep pores and everything you can put that on  and it’s a passive process, it only takes minutes to put that stuff on, and you just take regular  stretch tight here  and you can do that cover it like that and that keeps the oxygen off of it  allows the phosphoric acid to stay, wet and it’ll bite into that and remove all that rust  overnight. You come back in the morning and you’ll find it turns to a black, ossified  substance, and you can just scrape it off with a with a putty knife.

You might have to put another dose, or maybe even three doses, to get it, but we’re doing  this short. Video we put that on here, we’ll see how much that bites in there and then we’ll  do some on this Renault hood, we’re gonna put some dabbing here and see how that cleans up.  Let’s do that little section and then for this, which has a probably a couple seasons of humidity  rust on it we’ll use this, which is, I purchased this from Home Depot.

It’s a standard light  very weak, phosphoric acid, similar to the navel jelly. The navel gel has got a  little more bite to it, but we can take this and spray this on now we’re going to spray this up,  and I didn’t want to get the spray all over my wooden workbenches.

So you could put down a piece of plastic or something, and that would protect it, but  these are lab benches they’re made from epoxy and cement, so they’re made to have acids put on them.  So we spray that up.  I had a little crack in my finger and the phosphate got in there. It told me it exists  real fast.

You can see this washes off really nice.

So typically, we do this next to a sink or outside with a hose or something and  then we’ll just rinse it all off. But you can see that just dissolves. It really nicely  very easy, but it is a pain working with steel, because  uh the worst humidity here in Massachusetts, is in august every august. We have to clean everything  all the steel that’s exposed off the rest of the year.

It’s not too bad, but it does accumulate  and a little bit of this goes a long way too.

So you can see the quick results and then you can take a paper towel,  wipe it down but, like I said, typically we’ll just hose this all down now that I’ve committed on this part. That’s what we’ll probably do off camera is we’ll finish it  up. Otherwise this acid will rust everything more so, but I just wanted to show you that it’ll clean  up really nice so after you get it all cleaned up properly.

This would take a few more minutes  to get all the little nooks and crannies hose it off really good. If you got a big sink, you can  put it right in the sink much bigger pot, you’re going to have to use a hose, and then this is just  regular water with some dishwasher detergent in it and those are generally alkaline.

This is acid. This phosphoric acid and that that’ll neutralize the any acid and you wash it  off quickly with that and then hit it with an air hose blow. It all out get all the little nooks and  crannies cleaned out and then after you’re done with that, then you hit it with the heat gun and  that’ll vaporize.

All the uh collected moisture from the hosing out of all the little nooks and  crannies. Now I’m committed on this part: I’m gonna have to do it, but I’m not gonna.

Do it on camera I’ll, clean this all up later and mark and take a picture of it and we’ll put it on,  but it’ll take about 10-15 minutes by the time we get this all cleaned up  and it’ll be just like fresh brand new metal.

Let’s go back to our naval jelly  and see if we’ve done anything with the naval jelly yet so that’s only been on  a few minutes. Uh has a little life cycle, but let’s see what it did just in that few minutes,  all right, so that rust is a little heavier and that’s going to take some more time.  It’s not really biting it. Yet you know put some more on there and we’ll revisit it,  but that’ll all come out perfect, just a time thing now this might be a 24-hour deal.

We might have to put the saran wrap on it. A plastic film and lock it right in might be the  same thing over here too see if this made any headway over here can see a lot of uh  a little bit actually of the metal surface is starting to appear here.  So that’s going to need a couple doses, so I think what we’ll do is we’ll let the acid do its trick,  we’ll put a little more on there, wait 15 minutes or half an hour or so  and you’ll see how nice that’ll clean up  all right.

I had mark finish this up. I was doing something else and uh mark dosed it a little bit  more with that for the phosphoric acid from Home Depot I’ll show that again, that’s the gallon jug.

I think I sell it for about 18 dollars’ concrete and metal prep. They sell it in the paint, aisle  and it’ll last quite a bit a long time and steel walled, it  really good. Then he washed it out in our sink and then blew it off good washed it with the  soap soapy water to neutralize it and then blew it off again and then hit it with the heat gun.  So that came out really nice and that’ll be all set for a couple years. Now,  let’s go back over to this hood and we’ll see if this bit into here at all, yet  it turns to uh like a hard crust.

It did it a little bit on there.

That’s been on there for a while. That’s gonna  need a couple doses, probably a 24-hour deal, so that whole thing would have to be really  dosed up. You cannot sandblast this. This metal is 20 gauge.

It’s really thin stuff and it’ll turn into a disaster.  Now you can use rust 911, which is an immersion thing, but you can put this in a swimming pool.  I put it in a little kiddie’s pool and I spray it with that rust 911,  and that is a different process. There’s no acid involved in that  I’ll show you some information on that in a minute, but let’s go over to here  now you can see this. This is breaking up really nicely now,  so that’s two doses and that’s cleaning up really good.

A little scrubbing it’ll probably take three or four doses to get it all done,  but generally what I do with this naval jelly is I’ll.

Do like a one or two-foot section maximum  at a time it’s passive, you put it on! You go, do something else. You come back for a few minutes,  scrub it and before long you can get this whole fender right down to the bare metal.  It shines up just like brand new, when it’s all done, you can see that  that’s pretty good, so another couple doses all that little  residual rust will come right off and it’ll look just like the day.

It left the stamping press. So let me show you: the rust 911 deal all right. Here’s  the rust 911 I’ve been using this probably about five years now I tell all my students about it.  This is an immersion solution, chelated type of rust removal and it’s non-toxic,  non-hazardous, environmentally, safe to use. So this is the little pitcher.

It shows a really rusty crescent wrench or adjustable wrench and immersing it for 24  hours and you’ll clean it all up. Well, here’s another example of how we use this all right.  Here’s a polymatic, 20-inch band saw that we bought and it was in horrible shape this had  he.

This has been heavily rusted on the nice cast iron table. All the insides were all rusted.

This was all rusted really terrible and uh. It’s such a nice band saw. I do already have  a really nice wood band saw, but this one was a little bit better, so I decided that  let’s do a first class little restoration on it. So that’s what we did all of these pots were  just coated with rust and we dipped them in that rust, 911 and then we primed it up and painted it  put new bearings in it put new guides in on the blade.  What a beautiful piece of equipment, but it’s a perfect example of you – can take something.

That’s really beat up. That’s been abused, it’s all rusty that most people are going  to throw away. You fix it up little rust, 911 or naval jelly, a little sweat equity,  and these are now they’re a 6 500 band saw and  we have time in it, but not too much money other than the time.

So it’s got a break on it.  So that’s just a few of the things we do here to fight the rust demon  and I’d like to fight the rust demon as little as possible.

I do on the tools more so on than on the panel work. That’s really one of the reasons why I  love aluminum, so much you don’t have to fight that rust demon so hope you enjoyed this video  and it’s ray from ProShaper keep watching send in the comments, and thank you very much.

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