How to TIG Weld for beginners Episode 1

 

 

Hi, it’s Wray from ProShaper and Charlton, Massachusetts and tonight we’re going to start the actual TIG welding exploration. That’s how to TIG weld. Last night we did a little teaser welding up some aluminum, I’m using a technique that I learned from Martin from Netherlands. A couple years ago – and I got really good results with that – the comments on that video tonight were boy. I wish you could weld up some steel, so I figured well let’s.

 

I was really intended to do aluminum, but a lot of people do

steel. I do a lot of Steel too. So I’ve got some 19 gauge here. I sawed

it in half with my band saw, I didn’t want to have a shared edge, which is not

realistic, but it’s a nice tight joint, that’s very important, as I mentioned

before in the other video and we’re going to be running this TIG welding

exploration series along Concurrently with the all-aluminum bonnet of the e

type that we’re building, so if you haven’t discovered the my YouTube channel,

go to the home page of my YouTube channel and is like a hundred – and I think

ten videos there now and I’ve done a whole series. This starting on scratch,

building and aluminum e type nose or bonnet so we’re gonna start off this

welding video with a piece of 19 gauge I’ve wheeled it up.

 

So it’s just not a flat coupon and, like I said I being sawed it

in half I removed a little bit of fuzz at the band saw leaves and just to start

it off with I’ve got this little Chinese sourced welder, a friend of mine,

bought this thing. Why I don’t have no clue, but I believe he paid $ 300 far. That’s

what he told me and he bought it on eBay and he asked me if I would be

interested in buying from he never used. I say how much you want for he says:

300 bucks he’s a good friend. I give him the 300 bucks.

 

I thought it would be great for my class because a lot of people

balk it buying a TIG welder because they figured that they’re very expensive.

So this was only $ 300, it came with the regulator and you torch the ground and

it doesn’t have a foot pedal. It only has the on/off switch; it’s not

regulating of current here at all. It’s just on/off and I found that it works

best. Just by putting it at the lowest setting which says 10 amps, but it’s

actually a little warmer than that – it’s probably more like 30, but it works

fine.

 

So this is DC only meaning it’ll only weld steel, so we’re gonna

fire that up and I’m gonna show you a couple techniques and welding this

together with that little inexpensive, welder well, curiosity got to me and I

wondered how much these actually sold for and yeah they were selling about 300

bucks on eBay. I found it a company that sells that makes them, I guess, CT

312. It’s called, I think it’s about a hundred and twenty-amp welder, or

something like that. They won’t well too much thicker than probably eighth inch

steel and I haven’t really tried the high end on it, but it also, I believe,

has another function. It might be a plasma cutter or something there’s got this

Mme.

 

I don’t even know what that is, I’m using the TIG. Let me show

you what it does. First off, though, I want to show you how to properly grind a

tungsten and we have it’s an air-cooled TIG torch, meaning doesn’t have a water

cooler. These air tool, air-cooled TIG torches, are good for about a hundred

and thirty amps that you can weld. I have one on my Miller here, which is a

state-of-the at 1985 Miller synchro way, and I can weld half-inch-thick with

that that air-cooled torch.

 

So you can, you can weld quite a bit with this, but if you’re gonna

weld a lot of heavy aluminum or something you really need a water cooler for

you, TIG weld. I do have one TIG welder in the shop that has a water cooler. It’s

mobile if I need extra amperage, I bring that around. So this is a 2 % lanthenated.

I used to use the 2 % thaw rated, but this one’s lanthenated it’s 330 seconds.

 

The grind on it’s not too bad, but I’m gonna regrind it and show

you how to properly grind it and the proper grounding procedure is just need a

bench grinder and these two fingers and your thumb, that’s the rotator right

there very simple procedure boom, you have to grind it like this. You don’t

grind it like that against the wheel. So if the wheels here, it’s not

recommended to grind it that way, it’s recommended to grind it. This way now some

of this stuff will be pretty Elementary for some of the other people watching

beer with me, I’m hoping I’m getting a lot of beginners or people have been on

the threshold to buying a TIG welder, but haven’t pulled the trigger yet on it.

This will convince you to buy a TIG welder.

 

So let me do the grinding of the tungsten over here on the bench

grinder. So here’s my spinner fingers and thumb – and this is my guide – thumb

folded up to the wheel. Don’t wear gloves if you wear gloves the gloves get

caught in the wheel to ruin your gloves. They’re, probably grab your hand if

this bites you’ll pull your hand out instinctively, it won’t hurt. I’ve only

done it like once.

 

It looks dangerous, but it isn’t you don’t. Stick it in like

that you bring it an angle like this, slowly offer it up to the wheel, and then

you increase the angle and you move it back and forth across the wheel. You

don’t wear a hole in the wheel. You have a little cool bucket there to get hot,

like a super shot point and about a quarter of an inch back. So there we go now

we’re all set all right.

 

So the first thing we’re going to do is we’ll clamp this up same

procedure as I did in the last video I always like to clamp from the middle.

This joint should be pretty good. It should tighten up pretty nicely. So what

we’ll do here is we’ll try to do the tic tacs with fusion and I’ll show you

that that’s a pretty rapid deal, this one doesn’t pretty decent and overall,

I’m really impressed with this little machine. It’s incredible.

 

I think you can possibly buy em even cheaper today, but $ 300

for a TIG welder is pretty inexpensive, so a lot of people are doing rust,

repair on restorations and they’re, repairing a front fender, the lower part of

the front fender or the quarter panel, and Generally, a lot of people MIG weld

stuff on, and this is a much better way. If you’re going to do a super

first-class job, you have to butt weld. If you do a lap weld it’s going to be

adequate for a certain amount of time, but it’s going to come back and bite.

You there’s going to be water inclusion in there at some point, no matter how

bad, how good you seal it up, and so, but I prefer a butt welding. Now it’s a

problem.

 

If you’ve got the quarter panel on the car, a lot of my students

will say: well, I’ve got this problem with the quarter panel. How do I fix

that? I can’t get in there well, the quarter panel is spot welded on if we’re

talking, 60s cars or even 50s cars production cars, as opposed to coach, build

cars and you’re gonna have to remove all those spot wells, pull that panel off

fix it on the Bench put the panel back on the car. Now it sounds like a lot of

work, but you know we can take a day to take our old spot Wells out and you’re

going to remove that panel and you’re going to find gobs of rust and spots that

you don’t have access to. So if you’re truly restoring the car – and you want

to keep it for the next 20 years or so you want to try to that rust problem.

 

So if you get the quarter panel off it’s going to expose a lot

of in a structure that has rust there, a lot of the inner panel of the quarter

panel is going to be rusted. So that’s really the only way to do it really. A

good job and if you’ve got the quarter panel off, then you can put patch panels

on and either you buy or you make and you can clamp it on the bench. Get it all

straightened out, put it back on and do the spot welds again and then you’ve

got a really first-class repair and before putting it on you do all the rust

paint prevention that you would do on the backs of the panel and inside Struck

inner structure of the panels and also under coating and things of that nature.

So that’s the way to do it properly.

 

If you do short cuts, you’re, not gonna get first-class job, so

TIG welding allows you to do a job that the panel is as good as it came out of

the factory. If you do it right, so we’re going to display this capability of

this machine, as I mentioned before, this has just an an on/off switch. That’s

it so we’re going to do some tax, we’re going to do some fusion tax and then

want to weld this up. A couple different ways so all I have is this on/off

switch now some of these welders, not this particular one, but some of them

have on/off switches and some of them have a slider where you have the amperage

control T on/off. This is the most basic and it works good.

 

You can actually pulse it with your finger, pretty easy, so

we’re gonna try to do some tacks here, and here we go. So I put three tacks in

there: we’re going to move down the line here, move my clamps out. I try to get

the tungsten within 1/16 of the weld pool. You have to watch very carefully and

you’ll see whether or not that pool is going to take. Sometimes it wants to

open up.

 

If that’s the case, then you got to run over to the side a

little bit, build the heat up and then come back and then blast it a little

bit. If it starts to open, you got to have a rod ready and then you can fill

the little hole, but I think we’re going to be ok here. Like that one wants to

open up a little bit because there’s a little gap here. So I’m going to grab

the rod and I’ll add a little rod very easy. Now I like to put the tacks:

pretty close 1/2 inch, 3/8 of an inch apart or so that seems to do a really

good job, and these tacks should go all the way through.

 

Take a look at the bottom yep they’re going right through you

can see the penetration is perfect. I have a gas lens on there that gas lens

and it’s a number 8 call it. The gas lens will direct the argon. This is just

purely argon and this one right to the weld seam and give you good protection

now, with this little on/off switch comes in handy if you’re, welding,

underneath or underneath the dashboard underneath the car or something it’s

very difficult to work, a foot pedal. So the slider on-off pedal on/off button

works really nice, so my cameraman all-around web guy and general shop, helper

Mach, is doing the video here and last couple times we videoed.

 

He was in a big hurry to get out of here tonight, we’re not so

much in a hurry, so I gotta be out by 10:15, that’s the first mistake you’ll

make when you take weld is that I accidentally stuck The rod into the tungsten

and I got a little blob of steel on there. When that happens, you have to go

grind it so we’ll cut for a minute, I’ll grind it again and we’ll be back in

business. So there we have it and you can see that those tax went right through

you get perfect penetration. The panel is super level here, and this is a step

that I like to do on all my steel welding. I do it on the aluminum welding

also, but on the aluminum welding, it’s a little oxide on the steel welding.

 

You have this black fire scale and I’ll take a rotary wire

brush, and these are the knotted style. The this is also the pinch style that

they kind of fly out. These will fly out, but not too frequently, like the

other ones, so they’re a little more expensive, but they work really nice. So

we’re gonna wire brush this. That’s the heat affected zone, as you can see from

those tacks, the heat affected zone is only a quarter of an inch on either side

of the weld brought in either side of the panel.

 

Now at this point, this these tacks are almost as good in

aluminum. The tacks are not as good in steel they’re, excellent, the steel

tacks. This is effectively welded together, it’s very difficult to break this

apart right now on aluminum. You can take it like this on the edge of the bench

bend it it’ll break right off. This might do it too, but it’ll hang together a

lot longer than the aluminum packs.

 

Well now these are a little proud some of my added rod because

those afraid was going to blow through you don’t want to blow holes in it. If

you do blow a hole in the trick is taking the rod and instead of putting your

focus of the heat on the on the material, you focus the heat more on the rod

and the rod will stop the ball up and then you just kind of Drop that ball

right in there and melt it right in and fill in holes I mean literally, you can

have a whole half an inch in diameter and fill that up no problem, so you’re

going to probably blow a hole here and there you can do that With a MIG not as

easily, but you can so you’ve got to learn not to stick the tungsten into the puddle,

not to stick the rod into the tungsten and not to overheat the base metal and

blow a hole into the metal. But if you do it’s all correctable everything’s

correctable, so as you get more experienced, your errors go less and less. So

what we can do now is we can take this and put it in the planishing hammer. I

can also take a hammer and dolly – and I can hammer in dolly this right here,

but the speed steak will put it over in my little planning hammer and Michael

bring the camera over there and you can see that operation.

 

I have anvil that has a little bit of crown: it’s not a flat one

I’ll put a little bit of crown in it, and then I’ve got on these finishing. I’ve

got the brawl and squeezed speed and squeeze control that takes out the little

bit of shrinkage. That would happen when you weld that up also it’ll level it

that could have been off a little bit, but now it’s right on the same level.

This panel is acting like one panel, so we’ll bring it back over to the welding

Department, we’ll weld it up. As I mentioned before, I went to the planishing

hammer, you can take the hammer in dolly and you can crush each one of these

down.

 

You just want to hear that if you hear this you’re not hitting,

you want to hear the tink tink tink, so we’re all level now we’re going to weld

it up with our name of clamps TIG welding is all about being comfortable. You

can’t approach the panel like this and expect good results. What will happen is

you’re gonna be wandering in and out. You have to rest your arm on something,

sometimes it’s the edge of the bench. You might put a board here if it’s on the

side of a car, you could tape something on anything to get yourself

comfortable.

 

So we got the rod and we’ll try a little fusion first and then

we’ll add the rod but I’ll hold the rod in my hand, anyways we’ll try an inch

or two of fusion right here. So there’s the fusion and we got excellent

penetration, hoping I can get that penetration well. Why? I brush that? You can

see it a little bit better and let me get my shield on so small, that heat

affected zone it’s a little wider than when it was just tacking.

 

Maybe it was a half and three eighths of an inch or so. But if

you can see that that weld bead – that’s pretty nice now that was all smooth.

It distorted a little bit over here, but that’ll easily come out with a little

hammer because it shrunk a little the backside. You have a condition where it

did penetrate really nicely. There’s a spot right here and here that it didn’t

those wells, even though they have a little bit of open in the back.

 

If that was aluminum, I would chase after him, but steel you

don’t have to gas welding of aluminum you’re gonna see a lot of that sometimes

– and it’s not issue on gas welding aluminum, it is a weak spot if you’re going

to torch a test it, but on practical use of just welding pieces of offender up

or something it’s not going to crack, not the case here and steel either, so

that is with fusion, with no backing or anything. Now we’re gonna try adding a

little rod and see what that looks. Like now, the rod I’m using is a 30 rod.

You can actually get. I actually have some Oh 20 rod.

 

I really haven’t experimented with it too much, so I’m gonna use

the old thirty, which is pretty regular, used around here. So – and this is nineteen-gauge

steel – that’s forty, thousands, it’s very difficult to get in some parts of

the country. It’s even getting more difficult here. I can buy it here. It used

to be no problem getting and now I have to buy a quantity of it and I will do

that if they enough people want to buy a quantity of it I’ll buy it and do a

group buy type of thing.

 

So here we are we’re going to do another 2 inches, we’re going

to add a little rod. Now you can pulse this with by just flicking this pad up

and a little bit. So I posted a little and I added a little rod. I got a super

small bead there and, let’s look at the backside, looks pretty decent. Let’s

what Wyatt brush it?

 

You can see the heat affected zone, it’s about a half, an inch

on either side. It’ll, be the same. If I use this Miller, sinker wave – and I

can’t say enough about the quality – that’s well to the eye – control on it is

really good. It’s amazing for the price and my evident web guy and all-round

cameraman mark ran over and he found out that we can put these in our Amazon

store for two hundred and fifty-nine dollars. That’s the price on Amazon.

 

We have a link on description of each video. If you look at the

description of the video on YouTube scroll down a little bit, there’ll be a

link and it brings you to the pro shape or Amazon store and you can purchase it

right there. So now we’re going to go on to cleaning this fire scale off and

really observing what we did it’s hard to see with the fire scale. So there you

have now you can observe it pretty closely. There was less opens, there’s a

tiny little bit tiny little bit here so here we are looking at the back and

there’s a tiny little open here, but it looks even better than what the other

one was by adding that rod.

 

It gives you the ability to get a little bit of drop through now

will require grinding on this side. So it’ll be a light grind on this side.

Hardly any grinding at all on this, but this back side. So now, let’s try

something different. This is all unprotected on the backside.

 

Now I’ve got a piece of copper here and copper on the backside.

Gives you a backside condition of shielding, so we’ll put a clamp here like

that. Now we got to make sure that we’re up tight with that copper. Otherwise

we won’t, we won’t get that back, shielding that we desiring so we’re going to

add rot and we have the copper backing now. So, let’s see what kind of result

we get this time so there we have that now I didn’t pulse it as much and but I

did pulse it, which allowed me to put a little more heat into it and this one.

 

Now you can see. There’s a lot more drop through. So this is

what you have from here to here. A little rod here to here again with the

copper and you can see, the backside is really good. There’s one spot: that’s

open right there, so it was a little colder there.

 

But again it’s not a problem, but one little spot right there,

but overall that’s super clean. You could should be able to see that so often

times. I will use copper. If I want a really good backside weld, it just keeps

it really nice and clean. So what I’m gonna do it?

 

I want to do an aluminum piece tonight too, so I don’t want to

spend too much time on the steel. So let’s grind this and then we’ll take it to

the power hammer and we’ll clean it up, and you can see what it’ll look like

mock. You asked why was I pulsing the button on here, the on/off button and

that’s just another heat control and when you use pulse on a well that it has

pulse again, it’s a heat control, so you’re not really showering too much heat

onto that panel. At any given time, so you’re less likely to do blow through,

and it makes it a lot simpler to do once. When you have the pulsing, you can

pulse with a foot pedal.

 

You can pulse with this button switch and you can pulse

automatically if the welder has pulse on it. So let’s grind here a little bit

and I showed some grinding last night: I’m not going to talk too much about it

tonight, but we’ll do the procedure. The same way we’re going to knock the tops

off to here and then we’ll just crush it in. Now again, I’m gonna run over to

the planishing hammer, but I can do it we’re just a hammer and all this walked

over a little bit over here. So I didn’t weld it off to the edge.

 

So, let’s see if I can get it back there, we go came right back,

oh we’ll bring it over to the planishing hammer and just give that a light.

Clannish sand it with a little rotary, 2-inch, sander and then the orbital, and

we should be all set. Okay, that looks very nice. That’ll stand up very easily.

Both sides will look pretty good.

 

This is a hook and loop 80-grit Norton’s  we get 120 grit. This is the hook-and-loop

little two-inch detail, sander orbital and there’s your finish weld. You can’t

even perceive it it’s not there. You can clean the backside up even better if

you want, but there’s one little tiny little spot right here. Sometimes, if I’m

really persnickety I’ll go in there and weld up that little spot just to drop a

table on there, but that’s what you should expect with all your welds small

heat zones.

 

Heat affected zones perfect surface control. If you over stretch

it you can use, one of my shrinking discs you’ll find my shrinking discs in my

website. Crochet poor comm. I have a whole bunch of sheet metal tools in there

and if it was a little high, you watched my video on how to use the shrinking

discs and you can take that little bit of high out in two seconds. But all of

your welding in steel or aluminum should look like that.

 

Like there’s, nothing, that’s been done there, it’s just a

parent metal, so I hope that helps the guys that wanted to see the steel

welding – and this was done, like I said, with a super inexpensive welder. So

now we’re gonna do one other type of aluminum welding of sheet. As I mentioned

in my teaser video, which we put up tonight, this will probably go up with

Friday night Friday night we’re going to try to do at least two videos. Every

week now, we’ve been doing one a week, we’re gonna bump it up to two and if

things all go well, maybe we can even squeeze in three videos a week we’re

doing the aluminum bonnet and we’re doing the TIG welding and the TIG welding.

So inclusive there’s so many things that you can show with TIG welding, so that

could run on for a little bit and want talking TIG, weld and exclusively just

sheet metal, aluminum and steel, and we might do a little bit of copper too.

 

To show you how beautifully copper Wells up and stainless do so,

what we’re going to do now is. I want to show a little bit of contrast between

the different machines and I just showed wood steel on this very inexpensive,

Chinese weld or bare-bones welder, and its steel only machine – and it just

does a superb weld and I don’t think you could get any better. It’s just

perfect, but it will not do aluminum, but this is a 1985 Miller synchro wave.

It was state of the art at the time and it’s an old, copper coil machine. It

doesn’t have pulse, but you can pulse with the foot pedal if you want.

 

So let me get this set up and for those that are experienced,

TIG welders, be it with me. I’M gonna just give a little setup information

here. First again, I’m using Lanthinated on this. I always like to have my

courts supported, so I don’t have the weight of the cord. This just so happened

to go in there.

 

Really nice. That’s a nice storage point, so I’m gonna grind the

tungsten again showed that earlier in the video. So I’m just going to go off

and grind that tungsten, so I’ve got the tungsten all ground. It’s a two

percent Thor lanthanum. Sorry quarter of an inch back.

 

I put a super shot point on it. A lot of people and a lot of the

literature says you should, you know, not use a grindstone, that’s had steel on

it and not use something that, like a sandpaper or whatever. I don’t find any

of that to be true. The cleaning capacity of these welders today is so good.

All I generally do is just give it a little wire brush, so I’ve got this

clamped up the exact same way.

 

I just got clamped up that steel part. You can see the backside

and it’s a nice tight joint. I should be able to fusion tack it and we’ll try

some fusion tacking with this machine. Maybe will fusion tacking and fusion

welded half of it and the other half will use rod, grind it down clean and it

will torch a test and I think that’ll be it for the night. But I just want to

show that the capacity and capability of these various machines – and I even

have an older dial arc machine that I started off with years ago and even that

machine you can actually still do a pretty good weld with it.

 

So first we’ll stop this up. We turn the argon on. This is pure

argon and this one, whereas in the Ever last I was using a helium, argon 50/50

mix switch is here. I never watch the gauges, we’re going to be doing aluminum

welding aluminum weld and requires AC. Everything else is going to be DC and

you need continuous high frequency for welding aluminum, we’re putting it there

and the amperage we’re gonna.

 

Try. Let’s see we’re going to put it on the low scale, which is

the black and the high scale, is the white. So the black is this inner one and

we’re gonna put it up like 70 amps or so we’ll. Try that and the AC balance is

another knob that you’ll have on this. You have it on the inverter welds too,

and the more you put it this way you get cleaning the more you put it.

 

This way you get penetration so anywhere and here will actually

work. Fine I’ve got it set about right there. This is the post flow. You get a

flow of argon after you stopped welding, that’s important to keep a little

creative from forming, so I’ve got it set for, like eight or so I think that’s

eight seconds after you shut off the switch it’ll, keep flowing stock-car and

I’m not using Creative fill I’m not used, and this is just for the foot pedal,

both the switch and the adjustment on the foot pedal and that’s it. We’ve got

straight polarity, so, let’s see what we can do.

 

We’re gonna have to burn the tungsten in first because I

grounded it’s a good idea to grind those in but burn them in sorry, scrap piece

of aluminum here. So there’s the tungsten with a super shot point on it. That’s

a 2 % laminated 3/32 is a number eight cup with a gas lens on it. My Ever last,

I run a number ten Cup with a bigger gas lens. It’s a different format.

 

The gas lens improves the gas flow directs it right on the weld

very important. Little accessory doesn’t a much better job if you have one on

it, so we’re gonna just burn this in they have a foot pedal for this. One got a

little tiny micro sphere on the end of that tungsten and that’s what you want.

The 2 % thorated would start out really small, but it starts wandering and

it’ll get bigger. You would have to grind those after so many linear feet.

 

You’ll have to regrind your tungsten; it burns back a little

bit. So, let’s see if we can do the diffusion tax now I haven’t been using this

for doing aluminum welding for quite a while, because I love the other last

machines. One thing I’ve noticed right away: was it’s a lot dirtier than the

other last and the other last has the helium. I think that’s another feature

that you’ll find in the helium that it’s a lot cleaner, we’ll see if this works

really good. So you start on the pedal, give it a little get the current flow

to happen and build the heat up a little bit.

 

Then you nail the paddle a little and you’ll get the nice tack

and it’s pretty rapid too. I got a little keyhole started there. So there we

have it, I’m not going to weld all the way to the end. Just leave it like that

so very little penetration on the backside. Even though we had 70 amps.

 

This is Oh 63. 3003 aluminum. You can see there’s a little haze

around each one of those tacks and I’m going to clean this up. There’s no

strength at all. In those tacks.

 

It’s just merely holding it together. I’M going to put a couple

more on the ends here. So I handle that a little rod on the ends and clean that

we’re very level looks pretty decent, we’re, nice and clean, and now we’re

going to run with just fusion we’ll do half and then half with the rod. Then

we’ll clean it up and do the torture test. Now let me do the same technique

will do the backside welding first to close the back door, so there’s a fusion

on the back.

 

It looks pretty good. It was clean, very nice. You see the white

cleaning action that the TIG welder does and we didn’t get too much drop

through on this side, so the heat was moderate. This is a stainless steel

brush. They have a much smaller one.

 

I like this bigger brush like this. Now I’m going to fusion weld

it halfway, then I’ll add the rod so there we have that and we got similar drop

through, like we did last night on the other. Well, they’re using the Ever last

so now add a little rod that might have been a little hot again too ten late. I

bugged it up when you get too close and you put the tungsten or this was a

case. I popped the rod into it.

 

It’ll wick right up on you on your tungsten again, this happens

a lot when you’re a beginner, there’s no excuse for me doing it, I’m an abject

failure at TIG, weld and obviously so. Before I put the rod into the tungsten,

you can see by adding the rod, that’s a pretty good-looking weld and it’s

positive on this side and this side here, it’s not showing much drop through at

all, which is a good condition because the drop through on The bottom is hot at

the grind, especially if you’ve got a compound curve here and you’ve got no way

to straighten it out, so this will grind really easily. This might cause a

problem we’ll see so mark. You asked me: while I was grinding the tungsten, why

did you put the amperage where you did well? I thought it was about 70, but

it’s actually about 68 or so generally, you put your amperage of the thickness

of the metals of the metals like 60.

 

You use 60 amps if you give it a little bit more. That gives you

a little ability to moderate with your pedal. While you slide on your finger,

so I’ve got 68, not that much more. So the weld is looking really nice here

and, let’s see if we continue on there. So as I’m running the tungsten, I’m

also doing a little circular action.

 

That’s a nice little trick, one of my students, Joey Alan from

Pennsylvania, clued me in on that and what that does is gives it a little more

heat, spreads it out a little, but I’m doing really small little circles and

that beads looking really nice. So this is why I really prefer adding rod as

opposed to just fusion welding fusion. Welding can look really nice. Sometimes,

adding rod requires you to grind it out and clean it up after another step that

you don’t have to do necessarily wood fusion welding, but with fusion welding.

That can be a lot of problems like, for instance, in the video last night,

where I fusion weld that aluminum you’ll see this situation here, where we have

just a lot of drop through on the edge here when I ground it, and after I

Hammond it, there Was a little tiny valley right on either side and when we

torch a tested it that Valley, which has nothing to do with the well.

 

It was just the fact that it’s created by the drop through if I

had drowned it instead of hammering it or ground at first that Valley, wouldn’t

have been created. It’s just the condition of. If you take an awl and scratch

aluminum, that’s always where the crack will develop so because I had that

little Valley on either side of the weld you’ll notice after I handed it with

the ball peen hammer as hot as I could about ten times in that Last video, it

fractured there, it was a fatigue fracture. It was nothing to do with the weld.

The weld was as strong as the parent metal.

 

Now we’re going to do that after on this one, if we, if we have

any cracks in the weld zone itself generally, my theory is what happens. Is

that you just didn’t get enough heat into it? You need enough heat for the

metal to do what I call the handshake, and this one might be good, we’ll find

out. But if we do get a crack, it’s just because there was not enough heat. That’s

why I like the helium in the mix.

 

Instead of straight argon, helium ensures a really good amount

of heat, and heat is one of the benefits of gas welding, because you’re

throwing a tremendous amount of heat into the panel when you gas, well, it

anneals it now. Another thing you can do is after you, TIG weld and you’ve got

it all welded, you can a spot anneal the weld and that will make it very

similar to a gas weld and a lot less likelihood of any potential problems with

you. Well, so let’s carry on I’m going to do those little circles and we’ll see

what we can do. Hopefully we won’t stick to Thompson anymore. We got to burn

this in.

 

I got a piece of aluminum right here. I’ll burn it in on this

one here. Why do I burn it in generally, when you first after you first grind

the tungsten it’ll throw a little dirt like, and you want to get that ball formed.

So that’s every time I grind it on aluminum. I will try to remember it to burn

that tungsten in now the little technique, and I almost stuck that rod in

again.

 

The little technique you want to do is you have to watch the

position of your tungsten and you want to keep this torch at 90 degrees. This

way 90 degrees, but you got to tilt it back a little bit. I say about 70

degrees on the tilt back, so you can see what you’re doing now they do have the

glass lenses. That’s an improvement, use a lot more gas, but that’s okay,

because your object is to make a nice really nice weld and supposedly the gas

lens is only for steel. But I haven’t tried him yet so that that is yet to be

discovered by me.

 

But the gas lens will offer a little bit better visibility, so

maybe I’ll get one of those clear lenses, so we did get a little bit of drop

through not much so we’re gonna clean. This now we’ll grind her up. Okay. So

now I’m gonna clean up those wells. I have the Norton 50 grit.

 

I cut them like that. If you haven’t seen how I cut them, let me

cut one yeah. You put them on. I use an old straight with sheet metal cutter

and I got about a 3/16 gap between the edge of this cut a straight and another

straight another straight just keep turning it. It doesn’t matter if you’re a

little asymmetric or not these tips.

 

That really do the goop, the really good grinding, and you can

get a couple grinds out of each one of these little 3-inch discs and you can

put a little candle wax on here. Just standard candle wax so now I got a couple

of them. I can grind with, and I find these Norton blazes. Blaze worked really

good, especially on aluminum. Now we’ll try hammering this a little bit.

 

This is where they drop. It hollowed out a little bit. I got a

bunch of drop through any one line that all out so we’ll do the hammer and

Dolly trick again so see. If we can force that extra metal up to the surface, you

can see. That’s pretty malleable a little bit extra right there when not dead, now

close observation of this, and I actually can see what I believe to be a crack

and I think that’s going to fail right.

 

There – and that was the case that I always got with the argon –

is that you would never really knew what was going to happen. Let me look at

that with my little loop. Let me get the loop and see that with the helium you

just don’t get that yep, that’s definitely going to crack right there. I see a

cracks. So this is the bad rap that TIG welding gets when doing aluminum is I

found that it was a hit or miss?

 

Sometimes now it’s not a big deal, it’s just because it didn’t

make the hand shake if I re-weld that that crack will was heal right up, and

that might be what we should probably do. So let me see if I can draw there,

where it where’s. My pen right here, okay, so it looks like it’s got a crack

developing right here. I can see it on this backside here. This looks all good

over here.

 

I forget which one was the fusion and which one was the ground.

One should have mocked it and, let’s you know it might be a crack right there,

too, a little bit there yeah generally overall I’d say it looks like it’s going

to crack in a lot of spots now another test. We don’t have to torch your test.

Another test is to take this and bend it over the edge of the bench and see if

it’ll break off, and I think it’s going to so yep. There you go so you have a

failure there.

 

What a great way to start off this series is showing of failure,

and this is why the gas weld is scoff at the aluminum TIG welders, because you

do get this failure problem and generally during the class situation. If I did

the same exact sample, I would get probably as much as 70 % success rate where

you could well just like. I did and get a really good weld, but when I did the

torture test on 30 % of the time it would crack. So, the next time we do this,

keep this in mind. What happened with the argon, we’re going to be using helium

argon and we’re going to be using the pulse and the addition of those two other

elements really made this a foolproof method.

 

So this is a failure and the gas welding guys are right at this

point, saying better go by your flux, but we’ll have a different perspective.

Once we see the next installment when we go back to the Ever last and we’ll use

that argon helium mix and the pulse it’s foolproof, so hope I didn’t bum you

out too much. I wish I had got better results than this, but actually this

proved to be very good, very insightful here, so I tried to do a really nice

job and we got the failure that a lot of the gas well does point out all the

time. So thanks for watching its ray from pro shaper and I used to watch Red

Skelton when I was young man and he used to sign off good night and God bless

good night.

 

 

 

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