How to TIG Weld for beginners Episode 2

How to TIG Weld for beginners Episode 2

Good evening, it’s Wray from Pro Shaper and we’re doing the second TIG welding video, but it’s actually the third, as we did a teaser first and I’ve got a sample here of Oh sixty-three thousand three, and what I’m going to show tonight is I’ve been doing a Lot of different experimentations over the weekend and a little bit today, I did about 15 16 samples trying to get this nailed down and everybody has their belief structures. Will this works that works? This doesn’t work that doesn’t work, so you always should be questioning what you believe – and I think I mentioned before. I had a series of different welders and when we’re doing the last two videos I was using my Miller synchro, it’s like a 1985 sinker wave, still works beautifully, no problem at all with the welding steel weld, steel, beautiful but, as I mentioned during classes when I Do a demo with that probably seven times out of a ten, I could get a really good aluminum weld with it, but inexplicably three times it would fail and its kind of embarrassing. So I didn’t know what was wrong and I’ve tried all different things.


Then I bought these Everlast welders, which are inverted weld, is as opposed to that Miller. Synchro web, which is an old coiled, copper, coil machine, and this was a new learning curve. They have pulse on and, and I got introduced a pulse and I really liked the pulse and because I’m always having classes, I wanted another have the last. So I bought two one I set up for steel and one I set up for aluminum and the aluminum. I have the pulse on and I also have the helium argon 50/50 mix and on the other one which is the newest one.


I don’t run the pulse on it or something sometimes I do, but it’s set up a steel and that’s purely argon. So you know all my experiments. I was finding that I was getting a bunch of failures and I’ll show them to you with the Miller, and I was trying all different things with the Miller and we’ll have probably had another video showing those failures with the Miller. But tonight what we’re going to do is just the other lass and I’m gonna do I’ve got to have elapsed. One I’ve had probably for about two years and this one I’ve had for about eight months or so, and I think I’ve noticed a slight difference.


Maybe they upgraded the technology and that little bit of time I don’t know this one seems to run a little bit nicer than the older one. The newer one runs a little nicer. It might be a false perception on my part. I can’t tell you definitively this one: I’ve got set up with the pulse this one with no pulse, so we’re gonna start out with no pulse and we’re going to weld this up. Now I don’t have to show you the entire welding process.


We’ll show you a little bit then we’ll cut and then we’re going to show you the clean up a little bit, maybe not all of it and then we’ll cut and then we’ll go to the torture test. Well, the torture test is, I know, on any piece of steel. I well do they gas, weld it or TIG, weld it or whatever effectively you’ve made the metal one piece again. If you’ve got two pieces of metal, you weld them together unless you’re really bad welder. That well they’ll be as 95 percent or so as strong as the parent metal, and you should have the expectations the same with the aluminum so that you’ve got two pieces of aluminum you’re joining them together.


That joint should be at least 95 percent of the strength. Maybe a hundred percent of the strength of the parent site, the two pieces of metal. So that’s what I’m shooting for. I don’t want to see any failures at all and we’re going to weld this with this non pulsar with argon 60 amps, three thousand three aluminum. Eleven hundred broad and I’ve got a big number 10 Cup on here and I’m gonna attack it and when I tack them and the procedure I’ll use will be pretty much the same except I’ll be tacking them the same, which will be a fusion tack.


I might add rod if I have to and what will happen you know on this one. I am it’s because it’s not pulse, I’m just gonna burn the rod right in that means that, as I get the flame going, the electric flame, the rod is going to be right there and it’s just gonna melt it right in and it’s gonna Make a nice little bead and then I will run the weld on the back side with no rod go right across it’s relatively quick. The tacking process is a little slow and then, after when I get to the pulse machine, I will stick the rod in intermittently like this dobbing it in so you’ll, see I’ll note. The differences or you’ll see the differences. So first we’re going to tack.


It up Mike will show just a little bit of the tacking and we don’t have to see the whole thing. We’re gonna try to make the video you know 45 minutes to an hour or so and then we’ll be doing the torture test and I’ll do a review of all the samples that I have on a bench over on the other side of the shop. Here so Marcus suggested, I go over the settings on the Everlast and they have last had a memory, so you can put the settings into memory, so I’ve got it set up right now in advance square wave, use that almost exclusively I’ve tried, the other ones which Are soft square and triangular? I can’t definitively say that one is better than the other. It seems to me.


My perception at this point seems to me that being square wave works the best and that’s number one on the choice there. So, that’s probably what this suggests them by having in number one and then I have the pedal control. It’s got a foot pedal; it doesn’t have a slider or anything. This has an on/off button, but it’s not hooked up right now and then I have the pulse off and then this is the array of major settings. I got a set at 16 amps, it’s 60 thousandths, one amp for each thousandths of thickness.


Generally, I’m gonna have the other Everlast’s at the same way, and then I have the AC frequency set at 160. I believe that’s what I got the other one at 2 and then the AC balance I got at 30, which is towards the cleaning side. Then I have post flow 2.1 free flow point 4 and then we back to the ones 160 high frequency there we are, so that’s the settings pretty much. So we put on a op drill.


Helmet can’t say enough about these as awesome helmets. I do have the magnifier in there and we’re just going to do a little bit of tacking, I’m going to start out, I’m going to lock. These two ends first, because sometimes they open up a little bit and I’ve got a little bit of shape in this panel. So here we go on the tacking. They had a little ride on that one.


Not can you get me that brush, it might have said it before the neat thing about these op trail helmets? Is that what you see it looks just like you have no helmet on at all. It just gives you the protection, but the image is not really heavily shaded with a dark, grey or black or blue, or something like that. It’s it looks just like what you’re looking at right there with no helmet on the only thing I don’t like about them is. I have to set it here because that front is really not good for setting down on, and I set it on the side like that, so I got it all tacked yeah, it’s gonna give it a little now.


This is the way I really prefer to Blooming them. Weld and steel. Weld is adding rod and, and you have to swallow, the poison pill of yes, because you add rod, you’re gonna have to grind a little bit. The grinding is not that significant a deal you try to make a smaller bead if possible, but if a bigger bead happens, that’s okay, it doesn’t take too long to clean it up. So we’re gonna run the bead on the top.


Here we’re not going to do that, backside weld and deal we’re just gonna run the weld on the on the top with the rod and then we’re gonna run the weld on the bottom, with no rod. So there goes pretty quick here. We go and you’ll watch I’ll just let the rod kind of melt right into the puddle, that’s rocking a little bit, so I’m gonna put a little weight. That’s! That was full puddle!


That’s all 60 amps! You go full paddle, you got to move fast and you can see the bead looks pretty nice. So now we’re going to flip it over we’ve got some decent penetration. It’s not a major drop through! So that’s nice and now we’ll run that bead right here with no rod.


I had the rod in reserved if I blow a hole or something but this is the back side and that looks really good. It’s hot front side looks good, so we’re gonna put that aside now and we’ll fire up the other one and then we’ll do the pulse. Now remember that was with our gone straight are going the pulse. We’re gonna do now has 56 5050.


I gone helium will clamp this and I got a unplug this welder and plug the other one in move. The foot pedal move this okay. So now we’re on the second panel. We’re going to do this, one with the Everlast with 60 amps with pulse, but first we’re going to just tack it and I’ve actually come to like tacking without the pulse more than with the pulse. So the pulse works really good untagging too, but I did after.


Oh so much experimentation. I started to actually like the non-pulse: better tacking. It will catch the ends first yeah, and it’s really easy to do those fusion attacks and, like I said before, they don’t really hold too much together, but it holds it together and level enough to well, but there’s no strength at all in it. Let’s put a couple more here on the ends and then we’ll throw this into pulse mode and the settings on this are gonna, be pretty much the same as the other machine, except we’re going to be running. The pulse, which is right here, all right, so here we go now.


What I like about the pulse is, I believe, it’s easier for beginners that once you adopt it and get proficient with it, it’s easier because it’s more forgiving, it’s a slower pace. If you’re running it, this is awful at 16 amps. It goes a lot slower, the other non-pulsing method. You have to really run it fast, otherwise, you’re going to blow a hole or reduce your amperage quite a bit to go slower, but does a beautiful looking? Well, be there so now I’m at 90 degrees.


This way would have a slight angle. Back might even be more than 70 might be 50 degrees or so and when you’re like that, the rod is actually in the flow of the argon. So everything stays really nice and clean there’s the top side we’re gonna flip. It over and we got actually a little bit more drop through on this one. Now I have the option of pulsing the back or just running it.


I think I’ll just run it on this one so shut the pulse off. So there’s a backside. All taken care of and we’ll let that cool down bring this one back over and we’ll observe it. It looks really nice, no cracks apparent, looks very, very good. So now we’ll clean this up and we’ll plant this out so move to the other side of the bench.


To do that, the reason why I don’t like doing the few total fusion welding is, you often get undercuts little divots here and there. So when you add rod, you pay the penalty of having to grind, but you get the benefit of not having those undercuts. So this did move a little bit. There’s a little bit of plain difference here. I wasn’t clamping a really good when I tacked it, but that shouldn’t make any difference.


This should squash right down. Aluminum does squash pretty nice. Steel is a bugger. Steel is off a little bit, it’s very hard to get it back together. Again, I could put this in the power hammer and squash this all out really nice in a matter of minutes, but not everybody has a power hammer the planishing hammer wouldn’t have a tough time knocking these down.


There are some English wheel, guys that have a special crushing wheel. I don’t have one right now: I’d love to build one. I haven’t got to the point where I can allocate the time to try to build one that would be a really focused, narrow, little wheel and you can make it powered with a hand crank or with electric motor, because you try to push it through. It’s going to be difficult, but if you have the hand crank on it’ll go right through so we’re going to just knock these down a little bit and because you know everybody doesn’t have a power hammer will we’ll plant us your mouth and lower them a bunch. We’re just a dolly and the hammer here right at the bench, so we’re going to knock off the high points.


First, then we’re going to plan a shootout with the with the hammer, that was just a minute or so well grinding. Now we’ll try flattening it, and then we won’t flatten it totally we’ll flatten a little bit and grind again and when we’re all done, both the front. The front side and the back side should be perfect. They’ll be like one piece of metal: there’ll be no divots and it’ll flow perfectly across there. So we’ll take the dolly.


I got a little bit higher crown on this side here now you see the nature of the beast. It is weld. Bead leaves a little Ridge on the sides on this one is this side has a little Ridge where it’s a little tall there. Now I could grind it, but watch what happens when I, when I hammer this down just like clay the metal just squashed in to the surrounding metal and that Ridge is now gone now. You can’t always do this on a situation where you’re welding a fender up or something together, because you might be over developing and there’s a little bit of shrinking going on here.


But you know it’s probably better to grind it a little bit more before you pounded it in that much. But you can do that and if you do make a mistake and you over develop the spot along the weld seam, you can always heat it with the torch and then just shrink it right down. That’s enough for that side. On the other side, all right now we’ll grind this a little and see what we got and so that’s what that plane change was right. Here wasn’t clamped up and tacked properly, so I might have to give it a little more force there to level that out.


I switch to the low crown side, so that’s roughed in pretty nicely. Yes, I left my helmet off cardinal sin so we’ll go over to the planishing hammer. Everybody should have a planner and hammer in the shop. You can make one up pretty inexpensive, it’s great for doing the wells, it’s great for doing detailed work so we’ll run it into planishing hammer die and then we’ll do a final grind on and then we’ll do the torture test. There’s the well looking pretty good.


We’re going to sand it a little bit more, we’ll go back to the grinding station, so it still we’re still on the 50 grit. Here now we got the hook-and-loop 80. So there you have it. It’s looking really nice that all the heavy scratches out. We do a test right here then then they’re over the edge of the bench and right here you can see a little fracture starting right here and here that’s on the edge of the weld.


I might not have got all the edge of the weld out, but that will break if we do the torture test on it. Yep it’s breaking now by bending it, so there’s no sense in bringing it over. We didn’t have a little failure right here. This is with the Everlast, with no pulse added the rod. No annealing I’ve seen a lot of people that will and I’ve tried it myself and I think you get better results if you’re not going to use the pulse to anneal it and you might possibly not get that little fracture there.


That fracture will not happen as a panel on your car. If that that was on your car with no stress on it, it would never crack it’s never going to be a problem with the paint’s going to crash later on, or anything it’s only going to crack. If it’s severely stressed like I just did it there, so that’s argon, no pulse, would they ever last 60 amps, no anneal. Now, let’s try the one with the pulse with the helium argon combo and see what kind of results we got. So here we are here.


First thing I’m going to do: is I’m going to pound this up a little bit sunk in a little? What happened is it went in like this a little bit and I just want to get that. So it’s prouder on the top there we go. I put out 50 on and we’ll grind this one we’ll hammer this one down. Now a lot of people have been requesting a little demo, also with gas welding and we’re going to try that also.


So, we’ve got a lot more to show of my grinding. Now we’ve got one little spot here. That’s got a little Ridge here where the weld is so I want to see if I can pound that out of it but identify it. It’s right.


There, okay right there just about fixed it, look for any spots that have that little Ridge right with the edge of the weld was, let’s see if we can fix those, and we don’t want to grind all this bottom material off, because we can cold forge that into there keep in mind this, isn’t your best work when you’re doing on-camera, stuff and you’re trying to work to a time budget and you’ll be working like crazy all right, let’s bring it over to the planner in Hammond. Now that looks pretty nice little bit of undercut right here, still a little bit a little bit here: new spot. So there’s our surface looks really nice. I don’t feel any percent perceptible low spots or anything in here. It’s probably ground a little bit on the backside here, where it’s a little thinner in the weld zone.


Again this was done in a hurried manner. So let’s do the edge test right here and see how this one fits no cracks present. This is with the argon and helium. So, let’s, let’s bring it over there and we’ll hammer it and do the torture test over there and see it passes that test. Oh here we go with the torture test now this is to prove that we’ve actually welded the material together that it’s as strong as the parent metal.


So I rest my case. That’s helium argon and the pulse, which I have found personally to be the most foolproof method. Can you TIG weld with argon and get good results? Yes, I have myself many times, but for the average person it’s new to the welding game and they’re tossing in their head gas welding TIG welding. Well, I think that you’ll find that TIG welding is a lot easier to learn than gas welding of aluminum and on steel.


There’s no question: TIG welding is far superior and I’ll prove that in another video on steel, but I’ve found that using the addition of that that helium to the mix, 50:50 helium, argon and also the pulser, makes it pretty foolproof. As you can watch when I did that you don’t have to be that rapid, you can just kind of motor along if you have to reposition the rod, because you’re really not good at feeding the rod, you can just kind of back it off. Stop get your rod back to position and away you go now. I want to show you some of the samples that we did earlier. Look come over to the table over here.


All right. This was the first sample. We did, I think, in the teaser video and it cracked and everybody went ah ha, and this was done with the helium argon mixed and, as I pointed out, then it didn’t crack on the weld. As you can see the welds right here. It cracked adjacent to the weld and the issue was, I didn’t dry it properly and I left just a hint of where the edge of the weld was on the backside, and that was a weak point.


So after a couple days or so, you know there’s still a little bit left on that sample. I’ll grind those spots down and I’ll do the torture tests and there it is, and it didn’t break right there. So that’s proof that my theory was correct, that it was those little Honda cuts on either so of the well that really broke, because when you take aluminum you take it all and you scratch it and you bend it it’ll break right on with your scratched it. So that was a fracture point that a stress fracture point. So this wasn’t a failure of the weld.


It was a failure of my technique in grinding and then I did the grinding properly on this little end over here and it passed the test perfectly. There’s. No breakage there, so this whole table is all Everlast examples of various ones, some with helium argon and some of my annealed and some of them. I didn’t, I didn’t find any difference. I think you’re getting a pretty good anneal with the helium argon.


I think it just burns a lot hotter than hotter than just starting on some with Pallas and some with no pulse, but I was getting good results just about crossed the board. I did get one spot here where it just started to fracture. I might have left a little grind Mach in there, but just about every one of the Everlast with the helium and an argon mix. They passed the test. This is all done with the Miller with just the argon some of my annealed, and you know some of they look really good, just as good as these do, but you get situations like this now.


This was with no one Neil and it fractured some of its to the side of the weld some of it’s in the middle of the weld, and this one was annealed and even it fractured, but these are passable wells as far as, if you had them on a fender or a cobble Otte did be no problem with them. Not everybody. Torture tests their wells to this degree, but I think it’s a good way of understanding what’s happening and I think we have a situation now where technology has improved the welding game quite a bit and I’d strongly suggest if you’re going to buy a TIG welder to Convert a welder with pulse in it and I think you’re gonna serve yourself a lot better by making that decision. This was the one that failed in in video two. It would be actually the series.


This was an effusion weld with the Miller with no rod and this just cracked right away and broke right off, and this will be your example a lot of times you’re going to see the same type of thing. If you try to do that, no rod, I find that to be pretty constant. It’s. It’s a hit or miss whether or not you’re going to get a good weld there. I mean it looked beautiful, but it just didn’t have that full penetration or a handshake.


I call solid weld. I hope that raises your understanding of TIG welding a little bit you’ll, never even approach the perfection on the TIG welding techniques, and I mean there’s just so much to learn in TIG welding everybody has their little dislikes and likes and you’re gonna do the same Thing you’re gonna develop your own technique. Just like English wheeling of power, hammering everybody will have their own little style. What’s important is when you say you weld aluminum sheet you’re, getting that thorough, hundred-percent wealth, and you should test yourself make sure that your procedure that you’re using is actually yielding that kind of result. Now we’re going to compare these tag, welding results with gas, welding and that’ll be coming on later on, but that’s going to be continuation of the TIG series, we’re going to be doing a lot of things, but we tomorrow, hopefully we get back to the jag luminal Bonnet and we’ll get another installment done on that.


Well, it’s Wray Schelin from Charlton Mass god bless!


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