Metal Shaping for Beginners: Making a simple patch panel

 

Hi, it’s Wray from ProShaper workshop, we’re on the Jaguar fender now e-type fender. This is the one we were copying to make the aluminum nose and uh The owner is waiting for me to finish up all this uh rust, stuff and uh. I got to get it done so here we are we’re gonna do this tonight. This little patch panel here will show a little patch panel what this uh. What happened here was there’s inner structure like a mud guard that goes in here.

 

So, in order to attach the mud, flap or the mud guard, They’ve

got a little right angle, piece that was spot welded on here and then the water

gets in between the spa wells and you get sandwich rust and it starts pulling

on all the spot. Wells make these little impressions and stuff, and it’s all

rotted severely in behind there. So there’s a little hole down here and there’s

a couple holes here and the only fix is really to cut this out properly because

there’s a lot of heavy rust on the back side, there’s a little dimple here we

did the spot weld, but we’re going to I’M going to take and weld that up solid,

so I don’t have to cut down there. So the first thing you want to do before you

start cutting something, especially if this this has integrity as far as the

shape goes, so you want to find out where you’re at and this doesn’t have any

accident damage. So I have these gauges and but these are very easily made by

shearing a little strip and then using a shrink or stretcher to make the curve

or just a piece of cardboard, either way works.

 

So this gauge here – and this was kind of interesting it uh. It’s

got the thickness of the of the tape on there right now, but that fits right

there and it fits right there. So that reads this surface and it’s not constant

as you as you go up the defender. It changes just a little bit so we’re going

to use this one, that’s pretty close for right here and then there’s a curve

going this way. So we want to know what that curve is, and we don’t want to

affect it after we get it all welded.

 

So here we have this one and it sits on there pretty good from

here to here: uh, there’s no air gap or anything. It’s sitting really nice uh

it’s rocking further on because this has more curve further up, but in between

here from here to here. That’s all I want to be concerned about so the first

order of business is marking where you’re going to cut You can do a. I did a

magic marker line, but I prefer these blue tapes Now we want to cut this out

nice and precise. We want nice straight lines, so what we can do is if you’re

really good with the cutoff wheel.

 

You can cut really nice but oftentimes. When you cut off wheel

you kind of get jammed up and you might go off a little bit. So a good

insurance policy is to cut in board a little bit from where you want to cut so

we’re going to cut in board like this, and then we can grind and work our way

out a little bit, I’m exaggerating here a little bit. I should come a little

closer, so we’ll use the harbor freight little. This is their chief.

 

I did a review on it. If you look in my uh library of videos, I

did a review on this chief. It’s a really nice tool, takes a four inch cut off

wheel and we’ll cut that out like this. That will do those, but if I use it

here I’ll end up cutting a couple little wings here. So I’ve got a little

dremel tool here with one of these small and I’ll, be able to cut that out with

that dremel right there like that.

 

So that’s the next thing we’ll do is we’ll cut it out all right.

So we’re going to cut this out, we’ll use a little dremel first yeah that

worked really nice. That was the first time I used this one. This is new quick

change, style, there’s that sort of walks around that’s. Why you’re trying to

do a super, accurate line?

 

It’s pretty difficult. Ah, we got our piece cut out. You can

see. That’s the back side, it’s pretty rusted right in here we did de-rust it

with that rust. 911.

 

We dipped these fenders. So all the residual rust is gone. There’s

a little bit of cake on here. So now we’re gonna clean this up. You should

always wear a shield, because these can catch you sort of catch the pot a

little bit on the corner.

 

This breaks off boom hit you in the face, it hurts, might leave

a little laceration, all right. So that looks pretty nice now we’ll take a file

and just clean the burr up and stuff, and some sandpaper and next step is to

make a little filler piece there. There’s no area changing, there’s no shape

it’s just basically a flat piece and we’re going to tig weld this in and when

we’re done, they’ll be it’ll. Look just like the parent metal. There’s no

filler, there’s no, nothing, just prime it and paint it that’s it!

 

So that’s the way restoration should be done if it’s high

quality restoration. So let me get a file and we’ll file that out a little bit

get a piece of sandpaper, so we sanded this all up nice to get that metal

clean, the cleaner metal, the better. The weld same as aluminum this is steel,

and then we want to find out what we got here. I believe it’s 19 gauge, but

we’ll mic it up and see what it says and get the bottom cleaned up nice. It’s

all rust free because we uh we dipped it.

 

You could see that nice surface, we paint removed it first, then

we dipped it in rust. 911 concentrate that we buy. We offer that in our amazon

store. If you want to check the amazon store, the link is on every one of the

videos all right, so that’s all cleaned up pretty good. Now in my micrometer,

we’ll put that in right over here, gonna make sure we get it in a spot, that’s

flat!

 

All right, so I put my light on it and it reads 35. So it looks

like it’s 20 gauge, not 19 gauge. Let’s give another reading over here, I’m

getting yeah 36 on this flange here, 36 So it’s 20 gauge the fenders on these

jags are 20 gauge. I know in the 120s 140s and 150 they are 19 gauge, so they

thinned them up a little bit. Apparently I didn’t do too much e-type work.

 

So now we got to make a little patch panel and we just got to

put a little roll in it. There’s no area, there’s no compound curve to it. So I’ll

go get a piece of 20 gauge, we’ll put a little roll in it. Lay it in there mark

it with a magic marker and then we’ll cut it out and we’ll cut it out a little

big and fit it really tight. The tighter we get these joints the better all

right.

 

So this is a pretty easy patch panel to make. We just have to

bend it with our thumbs here like that and get that same curve in there we’ll

do some more complicated ones after actually, this one here needs this. Ledge

cut off, that’ll be another one that we’ll do a video of all right. So we put

that up under there like that and we’re going to clamp that in and then mark

that with a super fine pen, hmm there, we are all clamped up nice little Milwaukee

super fine, and I’ll mock this top here. So you don’t get confused now we’re

going to cut that out.

 

What we’ll do is take the blue tape and place the blue tape

right on the line here, and I offer this blue tape in my website store

proshaper.com. So I’m going to cut this out with the cordless shears. This is

the least expensive version. I think it was about 160 bucks or so, but they

don’t offer them any more menards had them, but they come from china.

 

I’ve been looking for a sauce for them, but I haven’t been able

to find it yet so I’m going to cut it a little wide of the line and we’ll grind

it to the line. How do you ever use hand shears anymore? They come in handy in

a few spots, but most of this is all done with this. I tread over the line a

little bit right here. I got into the blue tape, but I will survive now.

 

I’M going to put a nice clean disc on here, so that I get a nice

cool cut if your disk is really dull, it’ll create a lot of heat, and I’m just

going to grind this in nicely and we’ll see if that will fit in there. We lost

some of a curve when we cut it, so I’m going to put a little in here make sure

that fits nice. There we go all right, so cut it down a little more, and this

is slow, tedious work, but you have to be patient to get the really good

results. You have to be precise. Corners are biting a little bit.

 

I think. Okay, so that’s going in all right, so it might be a

touch tall here, so grind that a little more and that might be it. That looks

pretty good. So now we’ll take this blue tape off I’ll. Remove the burr on this

it goes in right there.

 

Now, what I’m going to do is get a backup of copper and I’ll put a bigger piece of copper, a copper piece about that big there’s, like 23, thousands, copper and I’ll be able to clamp that and that’ll act as a bridge and a surface that we can Clamp this to and we’ll clamp the copper in then we’ll clamp this in and then we’re going to tack, alternately all different ways to get it all tacked in here’s that copper. It’s o23 copper, roofing, copper. They use in the valleys of the of the roofs when they put new shingles on and any roofing supply place will have copper sheet.

 

You can buy so we’re going to clamp that up and that will make a

nice floor for that patch panel and also when we’re going to leave that right

in there. When we weld it. That will give it a back gas condition uh, which

will allow a really super clean weld, because the copper will hold the argon

right in there we’re going to use the tig with argon on this one. On aluminum, I

use the argon helium mix 5050, but on steel, just pure rock on is fine. One of

the most important things in welding in sheet metal is being level.

 

So now I’m going to get a couple more clamps and clamp this nice

and level. We got a nice sandwich there now so go get a couple, more clamps

clamp it up, and then we can start tacking it in all right. So we have it all

clamped up nice. It’s nice and flush. We’re gonna put a couple tacks in here: I’ll

move this clamp over here and tack.

 

This side probably get six or eight tacks in the middle here and

then we’ll go down to the ends and that most of the most important things is to

have this all nice and flush. So I turn the welder on and we’ll get going here.

So I’m going to use a 0.35 or 0 30 Let me just check make sure it might be o30.

Now it’s measuring 0 36, so yes, we got the tig we’re not going to run the

pulse on this and I’ve got it set at 40.

 

Amps there’s a lot of other settings here, but they really won’t

be relevant. So much on the steel, it’s the aluminum, where it’s really fussy

any tig weld you have to play around. I think 40 will do really well with this,

because you also have the control of the foot pedal all right, so we’re all

set. Now I’m going to put some tacks in here: that’s a nice little tack! Now,

welding 20 gauge is often better to hold the rod and [ Applause.

 

] put your heat right on the rod and drop a ball on, because 20

gauge is very easy to punch a hole through, and then you don’t want to do that.

So let’s do another one here. Now I really don’t care about any distortion that

happens, I’m not going to blow air on it or anything like that, because I got

total mastery of this process. I can heat shrink with a torch. I can heat

shrink with a shrinking disc.

 

So, no matter what happens here, I’ll be able to fix it, but I’m

gonna keep the shrinking and any distortion at a minimum, because that copper

is under there. These are pretty cold wells, they’re just tacks. I don’t really

care too much about them, because they’re going to get all welded in so I

touched the tungsten and I’m going to put a new point on that tungsten. So let

me go grind the tungsten quickly here, so we got most of it. Now we just got to

get this bottom half here.

 

Let me take that off. Yep, that’s lining up beautifully! Get

that tacked all right. We have it all tacked in now, and what I’m going to do

is I’ll clean this first with a wire brush, so we can look at it really good.

So let me get the wire brush.

 

It’ll be a rotary wire brush, we’ll clean both sides because the

when we actually weld it it’s better to have it uh really clean and the weld

will go a lot easier. When you weld over this carbon scale, it tends to not as

well weld as good as if it was super clean. So let me get that all right, so

here we go, I’m going to clean it up and now we’ll take and just knock these

one. Two three uh tacks down inside they’re just barely penetrated, so I don’t

think I have to well clean up the tacks inside. I might give it a quick blast,

but here we go and I’m going to weld just this one inch or so right here and I’ll.

 

Let that cool down and then maybe I’ll, come down here and clean

these up and then weld that up make sure they’re all nice and flush which it

looks like they’re pretty flush. So that’s good, we’ll get these two welded up

and then we’ll weld this and then we’ll weld that the reason for that is, if

you weld the whole thing, you’re inducing uh the distortion from the heat in

different axes here, so it’ll be much better to Just do them one at a time.

Take your time, don’t let any distortion enter the picture. If it does, we’ve

got total control over it, but it can take you hours, sometimes to straighten

stuff up. So it’s better to spend a little time going slow and our goal is a

bondo-free filler-free repair that will totally disappear after we get it all

sanded and everything and all to be required will be the primer.

 

So let’s weld this up here now, all right. So before I welded it

up, I put some copper behind there and that will give the back gas condition,

which creates a very super clean weld on the back side. So all the argon will

go in hit that copper and pool there and in fact gives you the back gas

condition there we go. Let’s get that all cleaned up, weld it up now we’ll

clean up this tacks and weld that in we scratch the surface. It’s all right to

scratch it, but we’re not digging in at all.

 

We just knock those tacks down now we want to lean this towards

me a little bit like that, and then I can get that a little bit better. So I

pulsed the paddle there, because this is 20 gauge and you got to be really

careful that you don’t uh overheat it and burn a hole through so pulsing. It

allows it a few minutes to a few seconds to solidify. So I got those two wells done

and there’s no appreciable, nothing visible at all. As far as distortion goes

here, so we’ll clean these up now we did get a little bit of distortion right

there right here, it’s sunk in just a little bit.

 

So we’re going to hammer that out. That means I got to grind the

backside too. So we’re going to flip her over and grind the back side mark and

come in close there and see that how beautiful that copper, protected weld is

putting the copper on there uh, you don’t get a granular sugar. Look like on

the back side of your weld and that’ll clean up, so nice it’ll be just like it

wasn’t, even a piece put in there. So let’s grind that up a little!

 

Well, I’ve got a little uh button from the spot weld there. I’M

going to knock that down, I’m going to have to weld that and then there’s a

little bit of distortion right here that it might have been there before or it

came from the weld I don’t know, but we’re gonna see if we can knock that Up a

little bit and use that little corner of the dolly, that’s a lot better. Now I’ll

put the low crown pot right against it here, that’s a lot better! Give it a

little more grind right there! Okay, now I’m gonna grind these off all right.

 

The copper is uh up tight against the inside surface and you see

there’s a little gap there. You can actually see the copper there um, so that

will be all protected by that copper now. So, let’s weld that up now, yeah all

welded and we’re trying to achieve a positive on the top meaning we don’t have

any craters of any type. So we got a little bit of rod. Nice weld.

 

It was all pulsed. It’s exact same thing as a gas weld, except

it’s more concentrated and more controllable. With that pulse, you can bring

the heat down to almost nothing and then just poop. Now I can do the machine

pulse, but on steel I prefer to do the pedal pulse. So now we’re going to clean

that up and see what we got and we’ll see what kind of distortion we have.

 

Let that cool down get it all cleaned up before we weld this one

up all right. So here’s the importance of checking stuff uh. We put that gauge

on there before and it was fitting nicely now there’s an eighth inch gap under

here. So this thing is sunk down right there and this one had a slight rock to

it, and now it’s got a gap right there and this one was fitting perfect and it

has a gap. So this is going to have to come up so it sunk.

 

This flange in a little bit and looks like we’re gonna have to

bring that up first, but I won’t do it right now. I’M gonna grind this down and

work this and then I’ll weld this up. So let me grind that and work that first I’ll

try to bring this up a little bit. It’s a little better, just a little more

right here, all right! So we’re almost back I’m a little bit more right here

and this isn’t perfect yet, but I can I’m ready to weld that up, but I got to

grind the tacks off so right there we are all welded up a nice little bead.

 

That’s we want is a positive small, narrow, bead with good

penetration. So, let’s clean that up and we’ll see what the back side looks

like and see what the front side looks like there. It is our front side and

there’s our back side. Look at that beautiful, bead, no granulation or what

they call sugar at all stainless is the worst for doing that. Sugaring, but

steel.

 

Does it too, all right. So, let’s see what happened with our

gauge. After that weld, we dropped down right again down to eighth inches by

putting that in so. But we know exactly where we have to go because we engaged

it beforehand. So that just shows that importance of knowing where you were and

where you have to get back to all right, so you can see how close it is over

here we get over here we got a big gap here now, so that’s got to come up.

 

We’re going to file it dip down. You can actually feel it

prominently with your fingers here. It’s high right here, so we’re going to

slap that and bring that up a little bit brought it up now that didn’t bring it

up, but I’ve got the dip out except for right here. I still need a little bit

more. The weld beads are up a little bit.

 

I’M gonna knock them down a little more now see if we can get

that flange to come up. That’s a lot better uh, it’s bending right there and we

don’t want it to bend there. That’s because it’s weakened because of the hole

so we’ve got to bring that down a little there. We go. That’s pretty good right

there, just a little bit of light thrown there, that’s good!

 

So now what we’ll do see if we can bring this a few little uh

low spots up still, let me get a better file all right, so we have a marker on

and we’re going to try to find the highs and lows here. It’s a pretty fine

file, it’s not removing any material. So to speak of it’s just indicating where

our highs and lows are. These are all like micro lows, they’re down, probably

about ten thousandths of an inch or so we get a slapper and we’re gonna watch

our little footprints here. This is very similar to taking dents out because,

essentially right now, it’s just taking a dent out.

 

It’s feeling good, we’ll put the marker on there again and get

another reading. Now you pick off these spots one at a time. I can just hit

right here and see how that came up and I’ll try to get that little spot there

sometimes uh. You can’t target it just right.

 

I like the light behind me, but I got a light in front of me. So

it’s making it a little bit difficult. If I do it with the orbital sander,

which I’ll do a little bit next, you can see it actually a little better. I was

having trouble picking that up there we go there we go.

 

Now we got a few little spots right there that we’ll have a

little fight with probably their little uh the material just kind of sunk in a

little. So all right now, let’s get these bigger ones up here, eliminate the

big ones and then go after the real small ones. After see what that did, that’s

feeling really good, let’s see if it came up with the uh gauge here at all. No,

it’s still way down so uh the arrangement probably changed a little bit. We

might have to slap it here to slap some of the material up.

 

Let’s see well still low. All right did this get affected again,

that’s reading pretty good! So, let’s go after a few more little spots there, I’m

using all the little areas. I use this little sharp one here to go up against

this edge, so I can bring this edge up and I’m using these little corners to go

after that. Let’s try that sharp corner right in that spot down here now, I’m

going to use the orbital sander, so I can see it better!

 

So, let’s see what we got here, hold that in mind for a second uh-huh.

Look at that! A little persuasion with that darling on the back side, it reset

the arrangement um. That was an area value because it’s reading pretty good

here, but now we’re back to where we want to be and we’ll check this one. That’s

pretty close.

 

It needs a little bit up right there, but what we’re going to do

now is I’m going to run the shrinking disc on this and then I’ll sand it with

the or yeah sand it with the 80 paper and the little two inch orbital to put a

Little marker on there so that the shrinking discs won’t gall yeah. If you

haven’t seen a shrinking disc before uh, go to my library of videos at my YouTube

home page and I’ve got a recent shrinking disc video. You can watch that one.

What the shrinking disc does in the process of knocking these lows down, you

might inadvertently create a little bit of high by putting the dolly in the wrong

spot, and that will just level everything. So I’ve only got some little micro

uh surface anomalies right now, so we’re gonna go after those, and this is all

fulcrum lava.

 

This is the fulcrum. This is the lever all right, so I’m having

a hard time seeing it right now. So I’m going to orbital sand it I’m going to

give it one more little buzz with the uh here to get any of these high welds

though then the orbital sander. This is 80 paper and this will leave a nice

little orbital pattern. All right, so we want to bring this is the edge of the

weld here.

 

This is probably about five thousandths of an inch deep or so

we’ll take this edge of the dolly. This is the worst one. Let’s see if we can

get that one wow just about out, I can use that little edge right there and

that’s really powerful, because that’s such a that’s like hidden with a ball

peen hammer almost so you got to be really careful. So first you got to find

yourself. I think I got it just about out I’ll get this one here I hit every

place, but it I didn’t see it too. Well. This is the way the shrinking disc

comes in so nicely because that’ll bring those little spots down and we’ll go

after this one. Now this is the worst one up here now. I can’t get that with

this.

 

So let me get these here! Okay, now hit it with the shrinking

disc. Again, I’m gonna put the marker on there that protects it, so it dropped

down a little bit, so we’re gonna have to hit it with the dolly again on the

back side. So we’ll let that cool down now we’ll see if we can bring a couple

of these up, I wasn’t able to do it with this. Dolly I can’t get because the

flange, so I got ta – find a dolly that will get in there and get that little

bit there and there’s another one here and a couple of really small ones.

 

So this was my dolly that came from the waterjet uh cutter. He

was using as a doorstop and I made it into a nice little dolly, so it’s got a

rounded edge there. I think I can use that to just bring this up. So all right

now we’re going to hit it with the shrinking disk and it’s feeling really nice,

there’s no perception of any anything that was welded in here, there’s a little

bit of micro stuff we’re going to sand that a little bit. I think most of that

will come out with a little light sand.

 

So we’ll take this sander. Here there’s a couple little dimples I

could chase those out. If I wanted to, let’s see where we’re at here might have

gone down again yep. It did go down so we’ll hit it again with the dolly and

that seemed to be the corrector. I brought it up all right check this one and

down just a little bit there.

 

We go we’ll put the marker on here, I’m not choosing to go after

these tiny little divots. Those will fill with primer and see what the file

says now and we’re going to go. The long way like this just to give you the

most accurate reading. So, okay, we’ll have to make some corrections here. All

right, so give it a little more tap in here I’m gonna give it a light.

 

Uh shrinking this rub and then I’m gonna call that a day that’s

looking pretty good, I found one spot. I don’t like I’m gonna chase that up a

little bit there we go that feels pretty good, we’ll give it a 120 sand. So I

think I’ll call that a day on that one I’ve got to cut this out over here. This

whole flange is all rotted that’ll get affected, probably so I’m probably going

to work into there again and I just wanted to show you the whole process. If I

was super persnickety, I could actually go in there and weld up those little

spots there and the weld will totally disappear.

 

That’s the only evidence of it now I don’t want to grind those

down, even though they’re down only about maybe 5 000 or so at the most those

that’s the edge of the well that kind of sunk in a little bit. So I think

that’s it. For today I think we did a pretty nice job hope you all learned

something and uh keep those comments coming they’re great and please tell all

your friends about the pro shaper workshop channel. It’s Wray Schelin from Charlton,

Massachusetts. Thank you.

 

Read More: Shrinking Disc Tips and Tricks

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