Metal Shaping Tips and Tricks: Making a Paper Pattern

 

 

Hi it’s Wray from ProShaper workshop in Charlton, Massachusetts, and today I introduced this in the last video. I told everybody that we’re going to do this back section of the Porsche. We could have done the front one, but we’ve already done that if you haven’t seen that video check it out we’re going to do this back section very similar to the way we did the front section, meaning we’re going to take off a lot of it all in one go, these panels are 20-gauge steel panels that my students made through many different classes and because of covid. A lot of these projects that I started with the students have been kind of hanging, uh waiting to be finished. So I’m jumping in on this Porsche right now and it’s and my intent originally was to get all these 20 gauge panels all fit and welded together and that be part of my class uh curriculum.

 

But that didn’t happen so uh instead of me finishing these 20

gauge pieces, I’m going to take and peel off all the 20 gauge pieces and I’m

going to show you how to make patents paper patents and then I’m going to use a

new technique. I’ll show you that in a little bit, but first we’re going to

show you how the you can paper pattern, this and it’ll give you the information

that you’re going to need in order to make this piece, and what we’re doing is

when we made this with The students we made it in a lot of little different

sections here and welded it together and the welding didn’t get all finished,

but uh, that’s not the way we’re gonna. Do it now we’re gonna. Do this one

piece we’re gonna come up like this and go over center and we’ll do the same

thing on the other side and then we’ll have one weld here and then eventually

this will weld over here, and this is an easy weld. It’s sort of a flat area,

it’s easy to planish.

 

The weld out same thing goes for here. It’s a lot easier to

planish these wells down in the valley here would be a little tough, but that’s

the only spot, and so we’re going to take and take all of these 20 gauge panels

off reveal the wire form and then I’m going to start making The patent, so next

thing is to get these panels off all right. Now we have all the 20 gauge panels

taken off. We’ve revealed the wire form and what we’re going to do now is use

this paper here, and I think I think this paper is about 7 000 thick or so I

believe I got this from uline and I use this for a paper patents. A lot of

times, of course, this is way oversized, but we’ll start way oversized and

we’ll use my magnets here.

 

These are rear. Earth magnets. They hold very, very well. We

make them all right, so we’re going to uh put the paper on we’re going to use

the magnets. We have rear earth magnets.

 

We make these they’re the best ones out there. They really hold

really well and I made a little holder and they actually stick to aluminum too

see. That’s aluminum. I put a piece of steel underneath though, but if you have

it right on the steel, it’s really hard to pull them off. So we make the little

holder, so it’s a lot easier to pull them off.

 

So we’re going to stick this on with the magnets and we’re going

to chop it away here. So as we cut it, it’s going to reveal a lot about what

has to happen with the metal you can see here. That’s where that valley is that

wants to go down. So there’s going to have to be a lot of stretching on the edge

there or shrinking in the center, ultimately a shrinking in the center. I

believe right there.

 

So let’s cut this away a little bit, we’ll mark it for first and

then cut it. We’ve got a bunch of different ways to cut it, so I’m going to

bring this in about four inches or so I’m just guesstimating here another

couple magnets on here and we’ll get a preliminary line. This is just going to

be a preliminary cut here and there’s our center line right here, so we’re

going to go beyond the center line and we’ll cut that off. So that’ll be a

first chop of the paper here. So I get my cordless shears out.

 

That’s junk now: okay, it looks like we got enough material to

go around the bottom. Now, let’s put some slices in it and see what happens.

This is where the most relief has to happen here. This wants to lay down, but

it can’t because it’s being held by that so we’ll bring this down like this and

see what happens. Okay, that allowed it to lay down, bring that in a little bit

more.

 

Now it looks like we’re going to need a lot more metal right in

there. Look at that. So that’s going to be the tricky part right there so make

these slices and pull it tight. Let me get the another magnet here. So all

right, so the significant features of this shape, of course, is a super

complicated shape, but we’ll break it down into sections.

 

This set here is pretty easy. This is just a roll, but it also

has a compound to it. So it’s uh just bent over, but it either needs more area

in here by stretching – or you can shrink both sides here or do a combo to get

the desired uh roll with the curve and we’re doing this in o50. And always you

have to keep into keep in mind that uh, you don’t want to stretch it too much,

because you lose your dent resistance, so a little bit of shrinking on both

ends here and a little bit of stretching blend it all together. That section

could go pretty quickly, um you can see.

 

When I made the cuts. The paper is going to overlap a little

bit, not so much up the top here. It’s fitting the wires pretty good, so there

wouldn’t need to be any shrinking up here, but uh. Definitely some shrinking

down below and, as we come around the corner here you can see, the cuts are,

are recording this you’re overlapping, quite a bit, which means that there’s

going to have to be a lot of shrinking to pull that down and under to be able to

get that to lay down right so and then here we had an unusual situation,

there’s a little bit of puckering here and um. That needs a little shrinking

over here, shrinking here, shrinking here shrinking here.

 

But what the paper reveals is, with this reverse curve

transitions in here uh. It’s actually going to need a lot extra material right

here. So what this paper does by laying it all down and making your cuts is it

gives you a good road map of where you’re going to do your shrinking and where

you’re going to do your stretching? But this was the genesis for me on how to

come about making the flexible shape patterns is that I initially would use

paper patents like this, but I wanted instead of just the paper patent showing

me where I needed the stretch and shrink. I wanted.

 

The actual uh surface information to be able to lift off, and it

totally encapsulates that surface information. So I have taken and you can take

and tape up all these and you make what I call a proto flexible shape pad. It’s

imperfect because it’s not a true surface there, but the other day. I had an

idea, and I’ve never done this before I said geez. I wonder if I made a proto

flexible shape pattern off of the wire form with Tyvek instead of paper,

because this paper is real rippy, it’s uh, but Tyvek isn’t!

 

So that’s what we’re going to do now is we’re going to make a

proto flexible shape patent off of the wire form uh, and what I’ll do here is I’ll

actually fill a piece in here, so that information would be there, just as if I

had molded It the flexible shape pattern off of a true surface, so that will

all be there and by following the dictate of the proto-flexible, shape, shape

pattern made with the Tyvek. I think it’s going to make it a lot easier to make

this panel. So that’s we’re going to do next is we’re going to make a Tyvek

flexible, shape pattern. Proto flexible shape pad all right. This is the first

time I’ve ever used Tyvek and I’m converted.

 

Already. I love Tyvek. Oh, it’s awesome. Tyvek get an idea here.

You can’t rip it.

 

It’s super strong, so what I did different based on that paper

pattern, which I oriented first by just locking it on here and then I had a

very uh large gap that was going to have to happen in here, because I put a

slice in there and There was all this material missing, so from that experience

I said I’ll. Do this a little bit different with the Tyvek, so I made sure that

was the first places that I put the magnets and I laid that in there so there’s

no problem there, but look what happened. It created all this extra material

over here. So this is going to have to be an internal shrink and, as I showed

you on the front panel yeah, you could internally shrink that with the torch

really easy, but we’ll try to do an internal shrink on my shrinking tool that I

made I’ll finish. It up before I make this aluminum panel and we’ll try to get

rid of a lot of that extra material, and then up here you can see there’s a

quite a bit of shrinking, that’s going to have to happen for this to be able to

conform down.

 

So I’ve got to size this a little bit and cut all the slots in

it. I’M going to do that and then we’ll come back on the camera all right, so

we got the Tyvek all sliced up and surprise. This is going to need a lot of

internal shrinking right here. You can see I had to make a bunch of cuts and

bring it together in order for that to conform. The wires are right here now

they’re right on the surface, and there was one slice under here it had to do

and over in here there’s a lot of shrinking.

 

That has to happen right in here. One little shrink right here

and that pulled that all pretty much together uh, it’s still a little bit

oversized I’ll, probably trim it down a little bit. But this is the significant

feature of this whole panel right here. There’s got to be an internal shrink

right there. If you want to make it one piece now, we can do that with heat

shrinking very easy, but I’m going to try to do this with my reverse, shrinking

tool.

 

I’ll finish it up. I got to put that neck on it. If you looked

at that video, but I’ll do the neck addition before we try to do this panel. So

what has to happen here? I didn’t get it all taped up and when I tape these

slices instead of taping it the long way, you want to tape it across, because

the tape really needs as all the help it can get more surface area on the tape

and then after I take It off I’m going to tape all those slices on the inside

too, and then that will make this a pretty strong piece, and that will give me

a really good road map of how to make that aluminum piece.

 

So the next step is doing all the taping. In the inside

finishing up the tape and on the outside, it’s kind of hard to get in here and

do it all so we’ll take it off, get it all taped up, we’ll trim it back a

little bit and then we’ll show you what it looks like After we get that all

done all right after making all the slices where I needed to make them and

taping it up on both sides, that’s what we have. I call it a proto, flexible

shape pad, but there’s still a ton of good information here. To help me make

the panel in o50 aluminum, so the salient features here, uh see, there’s hardly

anything going on over here had a couple slices a little one under here one

under here, but and I ended up putting a slice in here too. It was a little

tight in there and that in that valley, so I actually had to open the valley up

a little bit, but this was the main feature right here that this needs to be

shrunk quite a bit right in here.

 

So I’m gonna have to do that internal shrink there and then

we’re gonna have to shrink a ton right here around this tail light housing. So

let’s take this off and you get an idea of what kind of information this has

now remember. This is the area value of the panel. It tells me how to change

the flat blanks area value into the area, value that it needs to be so put it

on the floor here like this, and you can see the features. We got a mountain

right here, but it’s a mountain with a plane on the top, so that could be made

to be rounded here.

 

If we wanted to and then we could shrink those back the flanges,

because there’s going to be a hole for the tail light there, but this is the

spot here where it’s really sunken in and that has to be shrunk all in there.

This is a minor shrink here and a little bit of a stretch over here and a shrink

over here, so shrink stretch, shrink, shrink and the rest of it will a little

bit of stretching and it’ll conform pretty good. So the next installment of

this series will be making this in making this panel. My first goal is going to

be trying to get a massive shrink right in here and I’ll do that by taking the

panel I’m going to kneel this panel right from the get-go. I’M going to bring

it over my reverse curve, shrinking tool and I’m going to shrink that all up

like as much as I possibly can and then I’ll be able to set this on the

aluminum panel and it’ll.

 

Tell me whether or not I’ve done the job or not, then the next

step will be shrinking this so step. One step, two step three step. Four would

be smoothing it all out, so we have a short week this week because of new

year’s coming up and we’re hoping for great things for 2021, a lot of people

have been signing up for that class because uh we have the 20 uh sale on Right

now and uh we’re hoping we’re going to get this covered madness all finished up

and we’ll really get cranking on a lot of these projects. Making a lot of

videos – and I appreciate you watching the videos and please share and

subscribe – and this is Wray from ProShaper Workshop. Thank you.

 

 

 

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