All right quiet on the set hi, it’s Wray from ProShaper workshop, we’re doing another shrinking disc video. We got the uh, the jaguar uh e-type nose, lower chin panel uh, because these are so low and there’s curbs and everything these get beat up really bad. And this was the front nose section that we were copying in the aluminum mark is taking all the paint off and then we dipped it in rust, 911 and you can purchase that at our amazon store, which is right in our videos right below you. Just click the link and it brings us to it – brings it to our amazon store. We made a tank and immersed it and the good features of that rust 911 is that it goes in all of the tubes and everything else.
There’s a closed tube inside these structures and the rust can
still be in there if you sandblast it, I’m a very strong auntie sandblaster. I
hate sandblasting on body panels and even worse on sand after they sandblast
that they use an epoxy primer and if you’re doing metal work and you have the
epoxy primer on there, it’s a nightmare. You have to sand it all off before you
can. Even do anything uh that rust 911 will leave a little protection on the
panel so that it won’t humidity rust, it’ll stay pretty clean for a while, and
if you do get a little humidity rust. You just use a little phosphoric acid,
which you can get at Home Depot.
It’s very inexpensive. You spray it on wipe it off dry. It good,
no problem! So here’s the panel and we’ve got a bunch of dents in it. We’ll do
an analysis on the surface and if I was doing this to finish this panel, all at
once, what I would do is break it down into sections.
I got. I have the center section here and then I got these two
wings on the other side. Here and it’s got pretty good access and if you’re gonna
work on a panel like this, my preferred method is to straddle two benches. Now.
You’ve got really good access underneath which you can put your dolly under
there, and the panel will tend to jump around.
So I have a lot of beater bags in the shop people think the
beater bags are only for beating sheet metal on. They come in actually more
utility with a beater bag, just using it as a weight to hold your panels. So I’ve
got four beater bags on here. I circled some of the bad dents, but what I’m
going to do first is just magic marker. This whole thing: I prefer these big
wide magic markers you can get them at Home Depot.
I think that’s the best price around and I prefer this over the
dykem spray, because the dykem spray kind of gums up on the shrinking disc, I’m
going to use the shrinking disc. So, let’s mark this up, it’ll take a few
minutes. You don’t have to be perfect here and I’m just using this as an
indicator to find out where this panel is and how bad it is all right. We got
it all marked up with the magic marker and now we’re going to rub the disc on
it. So, oh look who’s here!
It’s frank! Hey great! Just wishing you a merry Christmas, thank
you, frank and all those metal heads out there in metal land. What are you
doing here right? We’re trying to take the dents out so you’re interrupting the
video, but that’s all right.
This is stupid, volunteer, frank! You call it at first yeah, uh
black magic might color it that way. Uh. I could have gone this way, but in
first grade I like to go up and down rather than side to side to everybody out
there ray and I always go through every day and every day I show up for him so
anyways everyone have a good Holiday: okay, good luck! Getting this
straightened out, we’ll catch!
You guys later have a good Christmas dinner. Bye, frank! All
right, frank has left and now it’s time to pull the shrinking disc out. This is
the 9-inch shrinking this. We make these they’re available on our website.
Proshaper.Com, but before we do it, let me just show you the
proper way to mount it so we’ll take this apart. I get a lot of emails and
calls people asking you know how do you mount the disc properly? Well, this is
an essential agreement here. This is a neck and flange nut.
It’s a 5 8 11 If you’re in a metric country oftentimes, they
don’t have the 5 8 11 thread or spindle thread on the grinders, so they do have
an adapter that will adapt the metric to the American English standard. 5. 8.
11..
So first step is when it’s when it’s all mounted. You want this
to be down in depression and you don’t want the spindle protruding out high
here, because you’re going to run this flat and if the spindle is up, it’s
going to scratch and dig in and everything. So, if that’s a problem, no matter
how you mount it, you just put washes on a 5 8 washers and that’ll change your
position. This is an essential ingredient. This I call this the central hub
support this one I modified by welding, a little ring onto it and turning it to
make it a little deeper.
I don’t make these and I’ve been meaning to make them for a long
time. I think I might start making them because everybody says well: where do
you get these? These usually come when you buy the grinder? This came from Makita
when I bought this grinder and this isn’t too old. It’s only a couple years old
or so, but I found that it worked a little better if I machined it accurately
and I put this little collar on there.
So that goes on like that. Then this is the backing pad. We make
the backing pads and sell them when you buy the shrinking discs. It’s a really
good idea to get a good backing pad and that now creates the support system for
the shrinking disc. So then the shrinking disc goes on and you tighten that up.
There’s a bug on the thread or something here. What’s going on
here we go there, we go the most grinders have a lock, they just hand, tighten
it. It self-tightens when you use it anyways. So now, when you run these this,
this disc has been around probably two years or more in the shop, see they’ll
run out a little bit like this, not to worry about it, because if it was a
brand new disc, it generally will run a little Cleaner, but that could be still
a fault here in the flange, causing that to do that. It’s not necessarily this
doing it, but it doesn’t mean anything because once you rub it against the way,
you can’t rub it on that, but you rub it on the deck on the panel.
When you rub it on the panel, it smooths it all right out, and
now you have a load on it. These grinders typically run 4500 to 6000 rpm. You
can’t use a buffer, polisher or sander polisher. They don’t have enough rpm.
You need the rpm in order to create the heat.
The secret here is heat and also the fact that you’ve got a nice
flat surface and you’re rotating it. It will highlight all the highs and lows.
So that’s why I put this marker on here to find out what that surface looks
like, like. I said I broke this panel into three sections, this wing, this wing
in the center, and that’s how I would finish the panel out and if it neglected
to mention this no lips of the opening here. That would be another feature that
I’d put a lot of tension into.
So let’s just rub the disc on here and see what kind of surface
we have. So now all of the faults or flaws in the panel are now clearly visible
because the disk wipes off the marker where the highs are and it can’t reach
the low. So all the lows are clearly defined. All the highs or actually good
surface is defined because the disc will hit that marker and kind of scratch it
off a little bit. Now the marker acts as both an indicator of the highs and
lows, but it also acts as a lubricant and without the marker.
If you use right on the steel itself, once in a while you’re
going to see sparks flying, if you see sparks flying, you should stop right
away, because that’s not a good thing at all and what that is you’ve gold. The
panel material from the panel has attached itself to the uh, the disc it’s
galled on there, and then it just keeps scratching everything and it makes more
sparks and makes a big disaster. So this acts as a lubricant. If you have too
much marker on you, you won’t get the heat buildup that you want, so it was
very little heat buildup. This is probably only 140 degrees or so sort of like
sitting your car out in the hot summer day in the parking lot.
It’s not enough to really do the job. You want to be able to get
to uh like 200 and 250 degrees at minimum, and as long as you get steam, which
is 212, then you’ve gotten the job if you see steam you’re in good shape. So
what we’ve done is we’ve got the bad spots all indicated here and there’s quite
a few of them. So well. That mark is not working that well.
Let me get another marker. Let’s see, I got one right here all
right, so I’m taking this blue marker and just kind of identifying all these
spots that didn’t get marked up by the shrinking disc. So you can see this
thing is a horror show it’s got little flaws everywhere. So you take your time
and you pick them out one by one here find where they are circle them and then
your goal is to correct them one by one. So you have basically three
conditions: good surface surfaces that are down and then surfaces that are
high.
The surfaces that are high, we want to bring down with the good
surface level and the surfaces that are low. We want to bring up to the good
surface, so we’ve got to pick these off one at a time and fix them. So this is
a lot of work. This panel uh just fixing this one section, could take couple
three hours or so to get this perfect and then it could be another couple three
hours on either side over here and then maybe another hour here. So the video
we don’t have that much time, I’m just going to show a few little sections
here, we’ll fix them up show the procedure again.
I do have a video on shrinking on me in my YouTube library, but I
think this one will add a few more features since be worthy to watch it all
right. So we’re going to pick off these spots we’ll do two or three of them in
this video. We don’t have to do them all, as I mentioned. So, let’s make this
our first goal here. Uh, if mark can get a close-up of it, we’re going to aim
right for this.
Now we can do uh, dolly uh, no contact with the dolly initially
because we’ll be hitting here, which is uh at a different level than the center
of where that depression is so. This straddles it. The slapper straddles it and
it’s so much better than a hammer, because the hammer is actually hitting right
in the center of where that low spot is, whereas this straddles the whole thing
and we got a nice little universal soap bar dish, soap bar dolly here – and It
has a nice little compound on the top here and we’re basically going to this is
the fulcrum. This is the lever, so we’re levering these little depressions out
and as we hit, we can see the little footprints really well, so we know we’re
on target all right. Can you see those mark?
Is that showing up in the camera? Okay, good, so you can walk
yourself right around really nicely and that came up now uh. If you come up too
much, that’s what the shrinking disc is for you, you, you can err on the side
of being a little a little too much very easily, and that shrinking disc will
just level that, like nothing now, the shrinking disc, you remember, is not A
cure-all, if you’ve got a panel, that’s like uh, a really bad road. That’s all
rutted and everything. That’s not gonna.
Do it. You’re gonna you’ve seen me, use the torch, you’re gonna
torch shrink and straighten it out as best you can. First and get that really
bad stuff out with the torch, the shrinking disc is for the finessing. I use a
shrinking disc for anything. That’s a 1 16 of an inch uh too high or too low,
and anything over.
That is the torch. So some people prefer to torch, but I don’t
think you can do a good as good a job with a torch, as you can with a shrinking
disc, shrinking. This is a really subtle, uh, really great smoothing tool. They
will make glass smooth finishes on your on your surfaces, so that one came out
pretty quick. Now, let’s try this one same process.
You can walk that dolly around easily. Then we got a little
small light one here and then we got one over here. We got one go here to here.
Real important thing is being comfortable too. I’ve got this nice adjustable chair;
adjustable height chair I can get in here.
I got full access all right, so I did a lot of that sentence.
Let me get this other one. Oh we’ve got one over here too, we’ll get those so,
okay, all right! That’s that, let’s uh, I didn’t get them all, but I got a lot
of them in the middle here. We quickly mock this up again and we’ll hit it with
the desk [ Music.
So we saw a little bit of steam there. We had a few little high
spots and that’s feeling a lot better already get that all cooled down. You
can’t do a good analysis of the surface until you get it right at room
temperature, because it’s still swelled a little bit from the heat. We’ll do a
little something a little different now, instead of using the magic marker,
we’ll take the little two inch orbital, make sure that’s nice and dry. Oh, we
still got a considerable little dent there mist and now we have a condition
similar to the magic marker.
It’s the little scratches of the orbits there’s the 80 grit
sandpaper. Now we’re going to take a sanding block and sand across there and
that’ll highlight all those lows. I had a couple sanding blocks. I use this is
a little six-inch Baltic birch really flat plywood. I put stick it paper on and
then this is a piece of aluminum.
I got a piece of, I think. 120. Stick it. I believe. That’s a
150!
Stick it! So let’s try this and we’ll just move it back and
forth, and that should highlight it pretty good. Now the sanding with the
orbital actually leaves the surface a little textured and you can actually feel
it better because of the texture, and you can see it’s pretty rough. We’ve got
a lot to do here, but this is the procedure. How good you get it um!
It’s up to you because you can take like I said a couple hours
at least to take all this dents out here. So let’s take and just rub my hand on
here now so we’ve got a low here. We can mark those lows again: we’ve got a
good low spot there. We have that really bad one over here. So there’s a few
that’ll keep us entertained for a while.
So we’ll get the slapper again get my chair and we’ll slap a
couple of those we’ll go through this cycle and see where we’re at um. I don’t
want to make the video too long, but the perfect. The whole purpose is to show
the procedure and also to show the mounting. Well, let me let me interject here
right now: here’s the five-inch disc that we make. This comes in really handy
on really tight spots, you’re not going to use it as much as the nine.
I much prefer the nine, but the five comes in very handy now. We
don’t make a backing pad for the five inch, because I found that I can buy
these harbor freight plastic ones. I generally don’t like plastic backing pads.
You should inspect it to make sure it doesn’t crack or anything, but I’ve had
really good luck with these and I think they sell them for under five dollars,
sometimes like 3.95 there’s a brand new one with their packaging and it comes
with the nut now.
Their nut is a white metal nut and I really don’t trust that
white metal nut on the big disc, but it seems to work fine on this, so the nuts
sometimes are hard to get. That might be another item that we should be making
is the central hub support for the nine inch and the nut, which would also work
on this too? But people always ask me: where do you get the backing pad for the
five inch and hobby freight makes a really nice one? It’s an expensive one. Now
the condition is low and then high low and then high.
So you’ve got basically like a wave condition. So we have to
undo that wave and that might leave a condition where the panel is up a little
bit, but the shrinking disc, just rubbing on it a little bit will bring it all
down nice and level. So now we just pounded those up. A little bit let’s take
and rub that rubbing block on the sanding block and see if those areas came up
a little bit all right. So you can see that came up there, but not so much over
here.
A few spots where the uh, the slapper and the dolly hit
together, but let’s bring it up a little bit more now, if you hit it lightly
like that and nothing’s happening, then go ahead, increase the amount of hit.
So you just hit a little hotter. We hit that. Let’s see if that came up. Okay,
now you can see those shiny spots starting to appear all the impact points are
showing good.
We got a little uh canyon in here low spots. The important
factor is, I have either using the magic marker as the highlighter, and sometimes
I actually prefer the little orbital sander, but to see it really good. You
need a light behind you, so if you’ve got the light behind you, it shows up so
much better. So, let’s just focus the attention on those two little spots. The
rest are going to be the same procedure, but you’ve watched those come up as I
hit them with the dolly and the slapper.
So now, let’s um, we don’t want to hit it with the shrinking
disc in those spots without some lubricant there, so we’ll put the magic marker
on and then we’ll sand it again and then sand it with the orbital sander and
then sand it with the with The sanding block and see what kind of progress we
made here so I’m putting the knocker on as a lubricant and I’m going to bring
the disc onto until it gets hot enough, so it gets steamed there’s a little bit
of steam there cool that down. Oh, that’s feeling a lot better. There was a
ridge in there before what generally happens is when you get a dent going in a
dent going in here. It causes a ridge to form which feels like a high spot,
which it sort of is it’s sort of been manipulated up by the lows which were
punched into it. These z-types really take a lot of abuse on this little chin
panel, because they’re so low this one’s actually a pretty good one, there’s a
little bit of rust over in the corner here I’ll replace some of the metal, but
the rest of its pretty good and We dipped it so nice that all the rust
internally and all the little cage nuts that are on the other side and
everything all cleaned out really thoroughly, and that wouldn’t happen.
If you sand blasted, I’m really on an anti-sandblast kick. I use
the sandblast at my grandfather’s restoration shop when I was just a kid and I
know how much damage sandblasting can cause to refrain from sandblasting paint,
remover and chemical rust. Remover. That’s the way to go. I just lost my
sandblasting audience.
People that are professional sandblasters are not watching me
now, I’m sure it’s funny. When you have strong statements on anything, you lose
half your audience. You got to be really mellow in today’s world. So what will
happen here is if you want to achieve perfection, you’re going to go through
many cycles. It could be four or five cycles before we’re done here, where,
when I sand that, with that sanding block you’re going to see nothing but nice
smooth surfaces because you’re going to get full contact, you can see right now
this is shown up here.
This is like a little low spot there and there’s a multitude of
little spots now we’ll chase them one more time and then we’ll call this video
finish it. So the object is for you to get the procedure down and every time
you cycle through here. This this panel gets smoother and smoother. You know
it’s almost crazy. Now that a good uh fill prime would do that.
It’s a little bit lower here, but a fill prime and blocking
would uh smooth that out beautifully. But there is a nice sense of
satisfaction. Taking a panel, that’s all beat up and then smoothing it nice,
and then you know you don’t have to frosted with bondo. Anybody can put bondo
on not everybody can smooth a panel on I’ve done a lot of bondo work in my
life. I’D never want to do bondo work again.
I lost all the bondo audience now all right, that’s feeling a
lot nicer, we’ll give it a little more magic marker hit it with the disc again,
even the disc, the magic marker flows over it. Nicer now, because it’s a nice
smooth surface, you might have saw our spark right here, there’s a little lip,
that’s high and I hit it with the disc and it caused a little spark. Abrasion
spark. So let’s hit that with the soapy water. What kind of soap just uh I use Palmolive
or any kitchen dishwashing the heavy concentrated dishwashing so as I’m rubbing
my hand with the soapy water on it.
This is smoothly sliding right over really nice there’s a few
semi-perceptible right here. That seems to be a little ridge right here. I
might have to hit it with the disc a little harder but um. That’s actually
pretty nice now, but there’ll be flaws. There they’ll you’ll never get it
absolutely perfect, but you can get it so that you just have to use a little
bit of fill prime block it and I think it’ll be as good as factory even stuff
from the factory is pretty flawed.
If you took a brand new car off the line and subjected it to the
same type of sanding block you’re going to find flaws in it, so now we hit it
with the sander again, you can hear that sliding across now you get a nice
swishing, sound They’re just smoothly swishing over it, it’ll still show some
lows and some highs, but they’re more and more subtle now, so that was the
little bit of a ridge there that that’ll have to probably be shrunk down or it
might get absorbed once they pound. The surrounding area up a little bit and
now we’ve got a situation where I can barely perceive any low here. But it’s
showing a low here and here and we’ve got that high right here, but it’s
feeling really nice. I think the video has done its job, so I hope you uh can
fully understand how that shrinking disc works and how it mounts and don’t
forget you can get them at www. Proshaper.
om appreciated we’ve making them for 20 years. We sell them all
over the world. We call them the smooth and safe style shrinking disc, made out
of stainless steel. We make them out of thicker stainless than some of the
other people that have copied my design. So, thank you for watching its ray
from pro shaper.
Merry Christmas.
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